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By 1974 all Mopars came with disc brakes up front, except for the W100 and some A-bodies.

On the earlier cars, they used two different starter relays....one for manual trans, and one for autos. The difference was the way the relay grounded. With an automatic, it went from a terminal on the relay down to the NSS, which grounded that wire when in Neutral or Park. With a manual trans...

I don't like tight belts....they're hard on bearings....and it gives me indigestion too! :lol:

My old daily driver was a '63 MG Midget which got 45MPG @ 4000RPM all day long. The old Hillman and Datsun PU's with a small 4cyl got over 40MPG too. Just as long as you were in no big hurry! :lol:

When I had a belt squeal problem, I would run the RPM's up to where it made the noise and then used a spray bottle with water in it to see which "belt" was making the noise. It was almost always the pulley causing it, so, off with the pulley and into the bead blaster it went. A little spray...

Maybe the drums are a bit warped and clamping them down against the axle flange is making them distort up against the shoes. Back off the adjusters and see it it frees up.

Yeah, the switch and insulated plug connector changed in '78. The switch works the same however.

C-bodies started using the large pitman shaft in the early '60's. B-vans in '71. A,B, and E bodies in '73.

Yeah, by then they were all riveted. My build date is 8-17-65.

Real early '66 model were spot welded, not riveted. I know because I have one.

That seems pretty Mickey Mouse.....

What kind of hose did they use to go from a 3/8 sender nipple to a 5/16 line?

Last photo is manual adjust brakes. I assume you meant to make them self-adjusted. The lower spring needs to go into the big hole in the lead shoe. I know it doesn't look right, but, just loop it through (what looks like backwards) and it will stay. On a side note, make sure the cable guide...

Plain white vinegar is the cheapest for rust removal. Lemon juice works a bit better/quicker, but, more expensive. The industrial (30%?) vinegar really works fast, but, at a much higher cost than the previous two. Neutralize with baking soda and distilled water and prime as soon as it dries.

If you mean to make it electronic instead of points, yes, Pertronics makes a kit for the dual point that keeps the original look on the outside. Since you replaced the 383 with a 440+6, original has long since left the building.

Even 50+ years ago, it you installed new drums on a old hub and staked them properly, you still needed to true them up on a brake lathe.

I had the same problem with them years ago. I bought some items from them at their booth at car shows, but, trying to get ahold of them on the phone or online was hopeless. Haven't tried since as I was able to find other sources of the same parts.

If these were my cars and I wanted to make the most with the least work......I'd leave the 440-6 in the Coronet, and install the already build 400 in the Challenger. Building new engines for either one is a money loser. If you're getting out of the Mopar business, sell the other engines as cores...

This water pump/idler belt fits various '66-70 big block without A/C applications, (including some police) but, do your own research to verify it fits yours. $45 picked up here in San Diego, or, $69 delivered (including PayPal fees) to a first 48 state U.S. address only. I take cash and Venmo...

Sale pending