Search results for query: *

I say get it running and driving with what you got, aside from finding a long tail shaft snd housing that will be money well spent rather than spending money getting a bastard drive shaft made. Nix the intake and distributor. When you got it on the road and driving then throw some money at hot...

I get that. It makes sense. It was just a topic that had not crossed my mind so it seemed unusual when it was brought up. Thank you.

67 GTO is my favorite non-Mopar car. I'll take the tri-power 400 with a 4 spd. And I think the early to mid 60s Pontiacs were the best looking big cars.

Lower control arm bushings for the latest pair of LCA's that I'm rebuilding.

Hobbies thru the years: Cars, guitars, men's baseball league, same softball league, golf. Now at 78, only cars, guitars and repairing everything that goes wrong with the house.

Yeah I gotta start playing hockey again. Been 15 years since I was on beer league. Im old enough now for old timers, probably more tame than the guys that think they were cheated out of the show. I actually have composite sticks now too. When I quit beer league I was still refusing anything but...

Those look to be TTI engine mounts. GenIII hemi to B or E body.

If the OP has any way of doing so, I’d love to know what the lobe taper is on one of the lobes that has the really thin contact line that’s running off the edge, on the base circle of that cam…….

I had a similar problem with my gauge bezel. Used Guerilla gel glue and worked well. Also glue an extra piece on the back if you can to give strength (fabric or another piece of plastic).

Yes it's the leaning of the car that makes it rub the tub and not the leaf.

I'll check my '70 Charger later today if I have a chance.

I agree. Legendary is the best. I purchased a set for my car but was not able to install until a few years later due to family issues. When I did, I discovered that the backrest covers for the rear seats were made incorrectly. Legendary made good and sent me the correct ones in a very timely...

Wondering if I should upgrade my transmission on my 64 Fury Convertible with 318 Poly. I have the stock auto with push button...it works but seems a little "clunky" to me....was wondering if I should go something more efficient like an overdrive....my plan is to use this car as a highway cruiser...

64 to 70. Five of my cars have stainless/chrome, the Bee has Black... probably because I used part of a trim screw kit on it.

Any recommendations for someone to rebuild the power steering box and pump on my 64 Fury Convertible? (318 auto)

O Gauge and HO Gauge, model railroading and kit bashing, Silver Bullion buying and selling, Ammo acquisitions...one can never have enough...That's about it!!! cr8crshr/Bill:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::usflag::usflag::usflag:

Maybe just me, but I always seem to have clearance issues to the inner wheel wells before they rub on the leaf springs. A rear sway bar makes a big difference with that issue.

I found them, thanks. The outermost bolt was where I could not see it. That did help so thank you. Mikey

They're a matte black, at least in the interior screw kit I bought. Most of the other screws in the kit were chrome/steel, so it seems they were black intentionally. Seems to make sense because the cover itself is black, and the instrument panel screws are also black--but those are a more gloss...

Also on FL CL-