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Good advice, but I didn't want to go full machine shop mode on this project. Forged pistons would require a hone to fit for piston to wall clearance or possibly another over bore if I raised the CH, and then some aftermarket con rods and rotating assembly balance for sure. Might as well have...
...advance amount but wasn't sure by how much.
You can see the welds here.
When I had the engine on the dyno, it was checked and there is 20* mechanical advance. But since my engine has the KB107 pistons in it and they are hypereutectic - I've read that total timing shouldn't exceed 34* when...
Not sure this is a good idea or not but I’ll throw it out for comment - high strength, 2-part panel bonding adhesive feathered on, like 3M, 07333. That stuff is tough. Block area afterwards with thin coat of high quality filler like Rage.
No. No other numbers. Engine is installed, difficult to look behind 2 1/4" tubes, but no stamped numbers on passenger side, just the engine part number and a 1. Day shift. No numbers by either one of the oil pressure ports.
So someone pointed out in here that I didn’t even purchase the correct headers. The ones I purchased won’t work with power steering. I am keeping my stock exhaust manifolds. To your point my engine is mostly stock. I thought I was doing something the simple way until I posted this thread. Always...
I didn’t have to massage my tunnel much on my 69 rr for the GV overdrive. I only use it after drive, not between gears. I’ve got 3.54 gears, and the GV drops the rpm’s quite a bit. I mounted the switch on my shifter, so it’s very convenient. It shifts very hard. If you’re not under load and...