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Hello guys slowly sorting out all the little gremlins on the dash 1st problem i had a undecided fuel gauge which would work when it wanted anyway sorted that one out with a new solid state gauge cluster voltage regulator & i was hoping it would also sort my oil pressure gauge also but no such...
Everything in moderation….
I never had any problems with it!
And
Always was changing oil & filters proactively!
And
No cam or lifter issues thankfully!
Even with my race Hemi / triple springs
590 cam. , Hilborn Injection , that thing wouldn’t idle under 1500 rpm. …..
13.5 Arias Pistons ...
Wally world has 15w40 Rotella T4 for $71 - 5gal right now at a rollback price. That's $14.20 a gal which is a real good price for here. Might be different elsewhere I don't know. That's what I run in my 18 Cummins diesel.
Robot or human?
Back in the day, just used to be the regular high ZDDP oil 10W-40 (SE, SF spec) and a can of Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) and never had a problem.
I think the EOS was mainly Molybdenum disulfide (MoS2)? Used to do the 500 mile break-in back then.
With all the new oil formulations, the break-in...
HI,
Ok I've got the over heating under control .. but now I have a loss of power and when I get on it I have that Blap Blap sound in my exhaust? did the times of overheating hurt my motor????
it seamed to be fine right after I fixed the over heating but now its doing this?
and the idiot light...
I was reading my email from Motor1, and I read about oil testing.
Oil Analysis | Blackstone Laboratories
Here is the full article:
How Oil Analysis Reveals Your Engine’s Secrets
Blackstone Laboratories uses only a vial of oil to shine light on your engine’s...
I'm getting my 71 Satellite ready for a drag race in September. It's currently running the stock oil pan. I'd like to get a decent oil pan with good baffling that won't drag the ground or cause fitment issues as this car will be returning to street duty after this race. What are you small...
What do you mean by you're surprised at what the oil looks like? A new filter and oil is never a bad idea. You can cut the old filter open and see if there is anything nasty in there.
From what I gather from oil info overload on the internet is: don't use API SN oil (2010-2020) on flat tappet engines and direct injection engines. API SP (2020-now) was reformulated with different levels of detergents and works better with flat tappet cams.
We have a big block that I want to slap together. It has all the parts in boxes. We thought we'd hone the cylinders and I suppose we should use some light oil but what kind/weight oil?
Hey guys,
So im about to break in a freshly rebuilt 383 magnum and ive got to buy some break in oil. I've done a few of these things over the years and usually I buy joe gibbs BR oil, but i'm seeing something I don't recall. I feel like I used to buy BR30 straight 30wt break in oil but i see...
That's how I lost the 440 in my Hurst 300. Ran great, but ended up taking out the oil system. I was a dumb kid, and hadn't taken the valve covers off. Didn't know what the chunks were, in the drain oil.
You might contact Comp and see what they say but that cam is wiped. How many miles are on it? And you know you will have to pull that engine apart to clean out all the metal debris....and check bearings etc, etc, etc....
Yeah, unfortunately a friend of mine ruined a 351W Ford engine. I told him not to use Moly, but he read in a magazine it was good. He did not change the oil and filter and just started daily driving it. I got the panicked call that he suddenly had no oil pressure...
I cut the blue rubber gasket out from the front that goes between the timing chain cover and oil pan cause I was told thats what I needed to do. And I used red high temp sealer.