Search results for query: *

I like what he did here. I might give it a shot. Thanks!

Kern Dog, is there a reason you didn't weld the subframe connectors (and the torque boxes) to the floor pan? And for you and anyone else, after I saw that the Stiffener Kit (which includes subframe connectors and front and rear torque boxes) was $642 on Classic Industries, I'm thinking of making...

That makes a ton of sense! Thanks. My rear was so far gone due to rust that I've had to replace or fabricate most of it. Lots of fun (which I bought a project that most would have walked past).

I bought this trunk floor reinforcement set from Classic Industries a while ago and essentially removed whatever left from my rusted trunk. I know where the reinforcement bar goes, but I don't know what the two smaller pieces are for or where they go. Can anyone help me?

I started under eldubb440's tutelage a couple of years ago and found his advice and pictures invaluable; so THAT'S one thing I suggest you need! Here are things that I've found useful that I wish I had from the beginning: 1. Angle grinders. Get a couple so you don't have to switch the cutting...

Learned something new AND get to buy (and use) a new tool: double win. Thanks for the info, url, and picture. They help a lot. Thanks!

I've been using a three prong puller; that's not right?

I've been trying to remove this pulley from my alternator and it's not budging. All I've been able to do is to bend the inner pulley a bit. Any suggestions? (It DOES come off, right?)

Thanks for your input!,

I’m looking for EXACTLY the look! What is the backspacing? What did you pay? And where did you score these.

Thanks! My main objective was to encourage other newbies to do their own. I had read threads that made me pause and made the process seem more daunting than it really was.

I was going to use zip ties but they didn't add the stiffness my old springs needed. Good luck!

Okay, I just completed recovering my 68 Coronet bucket seats; new canvas and foam as well. Just to document everything for others, here are some pics and tips. 1. Prep your seat frames by wirebrushing, sandblasting, and painting. Remove all the old hogrings. 2. Go to Legendary Auto Interiors...

I was lazy (and fortunate). I cut the four rivets from a working seat track off an A-body seat frame punched the track off (first picture). I did the same from the B-body frame. I pressed the A-body seat track onto the B-body seat frame (the rivets/holes match perfectly -- see second and third...

Thanks! Since I had the pieces separated, I simply went in there with a wire wheel and removed the gunk and rust.

Good to know. Thanks!

It looks like I only have one roller/clip/bearing set in this track. I am guessing that the other one got pushed out. I have another seat track in my garage and see if I can use that one (although I think it's an A-body track) or maybe use the roller/clip/bearing set. Thanks for the info.

Well, I'm no angel, so let me hijack the thread. I recovered my 68 Coronet bucket seats. In trying to get the tracks to slide more easily, the mechanism came apart (I didn't drill out the rivet as Bird 426 was going to do). As you can see, there is a clip, a cylindrical piece, and a ball...

Yes, I dyed a variety of colored belts to black using RIT dye. The dye doesn't stick to the metal. Do the dying outside on a camp stove as the black vapor can do a number in your kitchen!

I am recovering the bucket seats from my 1968 Coronet 500. I have the foam and covers (from Legendary) and have watched their how to video for the 69 Charger; it looks all pretty straightforward. However, my bucket seat frame bottoms were pretty rusty and most of the stays and wires the...