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Kobalt (and I'm sure others) have extensions with a wobbly/not wobbly end. Put socket on to first click- wobbly...push to second click- not wobbly.

I've also pulled the bolt from the pedal to MC link to allow the pedal to swing back out of the way. Be aware the nut is self locking and the contact for the wrench/socket is very shallow.

Welcome, OP, to one of the most uncomfortable, inconvenient jobs ever, and with a poor selection of suitable tools, to boot. I have better luck using "medium" deep sockets. I've found that standard sockets are too shallow and traditional deep sockets are too long and get hung up on the pedal...

Look at the other side. ...but DON"T loose it.

I had a very similar issue with my 70 Bee. I bandaided it by bending the tang over on the tuff wheel can and rotating the wheel to the next holes. About a year later, I decided to try moving the tie rod ends as @toolmanmike suggested way back on page one- turn the sleeves the same amount, the...

You don't want a drag. ...but you want almost instant contact. I like to smack the drum back and forth to help set the shoes. BTW- back a few pics, I see the adjuster anchor is on the top of the springs. I always put that on the bottom. That way the springs keep it on.

I agree with KD, I've come to believe Mopar did a great percentage of "proportioning" with the bore sizes of the wheel cylinders and calipers, even on front disk cars. That's why people installing aftermarket kits or a mix of OEM parts seem to have a lot of trouble. If you use OEM stuff, get...

I was talking about the plate at the bottom of the column that bolts to the floor. 74 is different and the holes don't line up. That's if you wanted to swap the 74 column into the 73 car.

That looks correct for 73. Be aware that the 73 "rag joint" is one year only and pretty expensive. That's why mine has a $4 hockey puck (and have been in there for almost 12 years). You can retrofit the entire 74 setup, and use the $12 parts store ford rag joint, but there a little work...

This looks like a 74 arrangement-

There it is with the shield. Note where the slip joint box is.

Are the parts assembled in the proper order? This is what my 73 looks like at the box. Heat shield is missing while I test fit. Yes, that's a hockey puck.

That's what I was talking about- torquing on them upside down can ruin the taper.

Grrr. It's killing me that I don't know/remember this...

Dug this thread up looking a for a pic of my tie rod end orientation to help another member. Just a quick update- I must have put the bar in the right place as there has been zero uneven tire wear in the six years since the OP, and the car handles great since doing this and replacing and...

That's what I was gonna say. It looks like the stud is pulled down through the hole pretty tight, though. Might have ruined the arm doing that. I've also never seen zerks on top. Real hard to grease them that way.

Ceramic pads are available for slider calipers. Rockauto has them, or did a few years ago. That's a pretty substantial upgrade.

I agree on the solid or stiff poly ISO bushings. :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Now lets talk about those upper control arm bushings and the lack of documentation on replacing them. ...and that 1973 only steering "rag joint" coupler.

NOT an ugly car. CA and "dry state" guys have a funny sense of what "ugly" is and what a "rust bucket" is.

Interesting, thanks. My Coronet is where I circled.