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Original plans were to race the truck strictly track use. The axle has the C clip eliminator kit, and has been shortened 3 inches per side. Under a stress analysis CAD program shortening the axle greatly reduced the forces applied to both the carrier and the outer bearings due less of a moment...

Do I need a lower stall converter, or can the 2-3 shift be dialed in? When building the chassis, much of the weight was guesswork and a torque converter was purchased to those numbers. It's stall (advertised) is 2800 rpm. 440 has a mild cam and the rear diff has 3:55's. Total weight with two...

"break a axle and tire goes..see ya" Not when you're running rear disc brakes....

Thanks for the reply. The supply for the 8-3/4 has rapidly dried up, and for good reason. Easy swap with minimal changes, to a more robust set up for higher HP and TQ. But with anything, supply and demand drives the price up. I have a couple friends who run the lowly 8-1/4 on the strip, but they...

Just curious as to what you paid for the 8-3/4 before any improvements? I'll not dispute any diff in stock form is stronger as they step up. Of course they are. But there are ways to upgrade a weaker axle to the next level for a lot less $ and time tracking down a dwindling supply. Rarity drives...

"If you didn't push it, you'd probably be okay with a 440 and automatic." That's what I run, but the axles have been shortened, disc brakes installed, plus a girdle with bearing cap reinforcement. Hooked up to a 4-link with rubber bushings. (No heims). The 8-1/4 is tougher than most give...

Agreed. A whole lot of extra $ spent if you're just going to the grocery store. All that "be cool" stuff can be toned down with actual usage of the vehicle and a decent power to weight ratio. That 440 will perform just as well pert near stock in a lighter car.

Originals were solid with heat treated rounded ends. New style are 3 piece hollow with a ball welded to the ends. Running the 3 piece shouldn't be a problem as long as you purchase a good quality part.

Flexible claw extractor and a bore scope. Done this a few times. I'm with @roadrunnerh Leaving it there would bug the crap out me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/293597324574 Once again late to the party. (You really do need one of these in your toolbox). Glad you got it out of there!

Sealed Power is the old TRW brand. They've always maintained a reputation for good quality parts mainly dealing with OEM specs. I run a TRW cam, rod bearings, and cam bearings. The engine sat on the engine stand for 28 years. (don't ask). It's been run about 500 miles after break-in. Zero...

Sorry all, didn't see the "no" in the post title.

Don't forget the friction modifier for that sure-grip. Some brands claim to have it already blended in but I wouldn't trust that they take in to consideration, requirements for older differentials. It won't hurt to add an ounce or two.

I've wondered about running additional ZDDP as well. I've got an AMC 360 with a mild cam and hydraulic lifters that has had zero cam/lifter issues. The engine is out of a '71 Matador. It's seen regular 2500 mile oil changes using Castrol 20w-50.

As @6pktgo suggested. Compression test. Two adjacent cylinders with equal but low pressure is rhe giveaway. At the very least I would drain and flush the radiator, refill and run it again. White smoke or overfill level on the dipstick. That water is either going out the tailpipes, or it's gonna...

All I did after 23 years of sittin' was to fill the crank- case and spin the oil pump. 50 lbs oil pressure. Most of the assembly lube on the cam had since dried up, settled to the bottom of the pan, with no affect on the lifters. The bottom surface of the dipstick showed just a little...

Cranking the engine by hand at slow rotation isn't going to wipe out a cam lobe. If that were the case, then turning it over to find TDC would've wiped out every flat tappet cam in existence. My engine sat wrapped up for twenty three years on an engine stand. Periodic turning over by hand to...

One other thing to check is your battery cranking voltage. Too low a voltage equals a high resistance, and less voltage to the starter. Also check the starter cable for any burn through.

Not to familiar with your carb. Is there any way to adjust the vacuum diaphram to a lighter setting? Quickfuel made this easy with just a single screw adjustment, where the Holley's had us changing out different springs.

While I'm a complete novice on the workings of a 727, I had the exact same instance occur on a brand new '76 727HP rebuild. I run a Winters Sidewinder cable shifter. The trans would not kick down no matter the cable adjustment, no matter the lever length. (Got one with 3 different holes...

I would also check how much upward travel there is at the pinion snubber. Jack the pinion up and note how far up the travel is. While you have it jacked to it's highest point, look at the front yoke and see if spline engagement on the trans tailshaft is within specs. Rapid vertical forces at the...