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I had good luck with mine. I took it out, glued, clamped and re-installed

You could ask MoparMark (?) on this website and I’m sure a few others to get a non-rusted out factory piece from a salvage car (I recommend OEM pieces) I 100% agree you should add at least some “basic” frame connectors. You can post a wanted add on this site or moparts.com and find a console...

Maybe keep your original carb if the core charge isn’t too high?

WOW! There is some super useful information above. Another way to look at it is you can measure what you need (assuming your yoke bolts to your pumpkin). As mentioned, you might not have a “typical” u-joint size, but you’ll find what you need if you know the dimensions you need (length & cap...

I think what you’re talking about is a yoke “sleeve”. That is a repair part. You should definitely get another sleeve pressed on by a quality machine shop or repair shop. Your yoke is worn right where the seal hits. A new sleeve will “build up and smooth out” the sealing area….so no more leaks...

For a stock conversion, I believe you will need (based on my ‘70) A. P/S box B. Pitman arm C. P/S pump, hoses & bracket D. Change center column shaft length as noted above (shorten it).

They push into a twist and turn socket

I “think” the lower flap folds around behind the fuse box. My aftermarket glove box doesn’t have that “lower flap” (fyi)

I don’t have the wiring diagrams, but the brake switch has direct power from the battery (always hot). The “outbound” wired go to the brake lights & your cruise control. So….see if you have 12volts at all times going at not the brake switch. Push the brake pedal down and see if you have 12 volts...

Maybe post pictures of the master cylinder?

That would make me a little bit nervous.

Correct! All brake fluid is synthetic. There are no "brake fluid wells" to drill for "conventional" brake fluid.

I’ve put about 12 hrs of work into it so far. It was rusty, seized and bent when I got it (side swipe accident?)

I’m not sure yet. I have not installed it yet. I just would like to have it in top shape before I do install it

Wow! She’s pretty! For handling, I just added an Addco front sway bar & 1-step larger than stock torsion bars and I’m happy with it. There are more aggressive parts, but I street drive my Road Runner

Really? I had a 77 Cordoba and a shop was able to install and 8-3/4” from some other car when the factory rear ended broke. I wonder what car it came from?

I’m trying to restore a 70 6-way bucket seat frame. I’ve watched the online videos, but the 6-way seat tracks are different from the standard bucket seat tracks in the videos. I can tell my little “ball bearing roller cages” are messed up because the tracks have some side-to-side play. How do I...

Google search. It’s a small 1”x1/2”x1/4” (ballpark) silver rectangular electronic piece with 3 flat metal electrical connectors. It plugs not the back of the rally dash circuit board. It powers those 3 gauges and drops 12V power to 5V for the gauges. They fluctuate and burn out. Electronic...

Well, I know 100% for sure, the center carb won’t come off by itself with the front/back carb installed. I’ve always taken off the front carb first, then center. You don’t really need to unbolt the center carb’s baseplate. Just remove the fuel lines & front carb and you’ll have access to the...

As far as I know, just the A-833, whatever the 3-speed manual is and anything produced by Brewers Performance. The A-833 is very strong