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I've had a Plymouth Conquest and a Dodge Stealth, but both of those were Mitsubishi-made cars. Both were fun for what they were, but were not big blocks. I think the point of this exercise is to predict what the next generation of collectors would consider collectables, which are usually cars...

It maybe too late to get a decent deal for those trucks, but certainly is a no-brainer for it's collectability.

Myself, being part of the Baby Boom Generation, I was curious "What are a few of the future Mopar collectible cars and trucks other than the '50's, 60's. &70's?" What Mopars do you consider interesting from the '80's, '90's, and 2000's? SUV"S maybe? What will generations X, Y, Z, @ millennials...

In the beginning, I fed the hot side of the coil from a subpanel which was hot when key was in on position. In turn, as stated many posts ago, it was backfeeding power to the other circuits while cranking, thus blowing the 10 amp fuse going to the coil from the subpanel. Hense the reason for the...

As promised, I will update issues. After 7 HEI modules popping almost immediately in some cases, I have officially given up on the HEI experience on my 1973 Dodge Charger. I can not explain why some of the HEI modules worked for a short time, then popped, while the last 3 modules almost...

As I suspected, the current was being back fed to the accessory items mentioned above, thereby causing the circuit to blow the fuse due to current being drawn through the HEI circuit. My solution was to use a 10A diode purchased on ebay which limits the current to flow in one direction only...

I did not run a resistor but am considering. Upon further thought, I think what is happening is when cranking, I'm back feeding power to the electric cooling fan, electric water pump, electric fuel pump and electric vacuum pump, which is in fact easily overloading the 10a fuse.

Back to the original purpose of this thread, concerning the start and run position of the switch. Since hooking up the HEI module in my Charger it has worked as intended until the other day when I started the car to move it out of the garage to work on my daily driver. After working on the daily...

Has anyone used Firmfeel upper control arms or similar products to improve positive caster? If so, was it worth it and would you do it again? My ride is a 1973 Charger, please share what vehicle you used it in.

Many of us claim to know this or that that is taking place inside the combustion chamber, quite frankly I doubt many of us really know any more than the seat of our pants tells us. Even fewer of us know why one coil, ignition module, spark plug, plug wires, etc. over another really works better...

I've got the Yearone 17" magnum and love them. I get many compliments on them.

I meant to explain the above pictures, 1st picture is custom battery hold down, 2nd picture is custom painted hood insulation, 3rd picture custom diagonal fender braces, 4th and 5th pictures are of vertical console with gauges, radio w/ backup camera.

Here's a couple of additional custom touches I've done this year.

Good info Dan, I appreciate the way you explain things. It seems like several folks explain things over most of the common man's understanding.

Bob, Thanks for your input in this thread. As far as different manufactures for the HEI modules, I have read in other forums that not all HEI modules are created equal, while others are just rebranded from the same manufacture. I do understand that proper heat sink is critical to the life of the...

Do you have a brand preference? I think mine is an Eljin TP45 from NAPA.

Same subject, but different. How do you know if the HEI module is defective or damaged? 1- Either creates spark or it doesn't or 2- Develops a miss 3- Something else

Would you by chance have a diagram of the 4 pin relay wiring or perhaps post a link. From what you have described may be the missing link I'm seeking.

Yeah I saw your response previously posted, basically my response is simply this; Why keep the ballast resister in the loop whenever it's function is being bypassed other than the appearance of a stock look? Why not simply take the 2 feeds (start/brown & run/blue wires from the bulkhead)...

You obviously are more knowledgeable concerning these matters than I, hence my asking for advice. I picked these particular diodes for the current rating, just happens to be 5 in a package. How would you arrange them, or am I barking up the wrong tree?