HEI Conversion Coil Question

[dadsbee]

Bob, go have a nap...

 

[Bee1971]

LOL

Maybe he is DIZZY

 

[GTXDAN]

I wasn't going to go there it was to easy. LOL

 

[RJRENTON]

LOL

Maybe he is DIZZY

ABSOLUTELY.....but.....HOW DIFICULT IS IT TO SPELL ENGINE COMPONENTS CORRECTLY? Or perhaps the person using the word ("dizzy") doesn't know how to spell the component correctly......it's not "funny"......it just sounds stupid for a grown, reasonably educated person to talk in euphemisms......like a child......
BOB RENTON

 

[Kern Dog]

ABSOLUTELY.....but.....HOW DIFICULT IS IT TO SPELL ENGINE COMPONENTS CORRECTLY?

Come on, man… you’re making this easy. How hard is to spell the word difficult?

 

[Bee1971]

I had to look that up

Six common euphemisms are:

• A bun in the oven: pregnant.
• No longer with us: dead.
• Let go: fired.
• Plastered: drunk.
• Time of the month: menstruation.
• DIZZY - Distributor

Pretty much sums it up - LOL




Time for bed - Hopefully I won’t bee DIZZY at the Town Hall tomorrow

 

[RJRENTON]

I had to look that up

Six common euphemisms are:

• A bun in the oven: pregnant.
• No longer with us: dead.
• Let go: fired.
• Plastered: drunk.
• Time of the month: menstruation.
• DIZZY - Distributor

Pretty much sums it up - LOL




Time for bed - Hopefully I won’t bee DIZZY at the Town Hall tomorrow

You probably never heard of this euphemism either: "picking your nose and rolling booger pills with your thumb and finger" = a soothing experience......and "dizzy never equals a distributor" ..... only to the uneducated or someone that doesn't know how to spell....
BOB RENTON

 

[Bee1971]

First - I wasn’t the one who initiated the word DIZZY on this thread

Second - You might want to look up the meaning of DOUBLE STANDARD in regards to your last comment

My opinion of course

 

[dadsbee]

Just can't wait for his next "RPM" abbreviation....

 

[1973dodger]

Back to the original purpose of this thread, concerning the start and run position of the switch. Since hooking up the HEI module in my Charger it has worked as intended until the other day when I started the car to move it out of the garage to work on my daily driver. After working on the daily driver, went to put the Charger in it's rightful place, no spark, no start. Long story short, after taking the general advice of this thread, I ran both the crank and run wires to the + side of the coil, with the run wire on a 10 amp fuse. The fuse keeps popping for the run wire, thus no spark when in run position? Engine seems to have spark in crank position and immediately dies when key is released to run position. My original concern when creating this thread is, Is power from the crank wire backfeeding power to all the circuits that are normally off while the starter is engaged when cranking? What's confusing is this setup has worked for a couple of months w/o issue. It's either that or something is grounding out in the run circuit or HEI module is crapped out? Ignition switch is new. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[GTXDAN]

Are you still running a resistor in the system? If so it needs to be bypassed by soldering a wire across the terminals or just making a jumper to plug the wires together. I would try to isolate the system by unhooking the power to the coil and crank it to see if it blows a fuse, and if it does, unhook the power to the module and try. Why the fuse in the ignition wire?

 

[Geoff 2]

[1] If the coil being used requires a bal res [ such as factory coil ], then the bal res MUST be used, even with a HEI module.
[2] I fuse HEIs with a 10 amp fuse, never had the fuse blow. You could have a faulty coil or module.
[3] Make sure the ign fuse only feeds the ign coil & module.

 

[1973dodger]

Are you still running a resistor in the system? If so it needs to be bypassed by soldering a wire across the terminals or just making a jumper to plug the wires together. I would try to isolate the system by unhooking the power to the coil and crank it to see if it blows a fuse, and if it does, unhook the power to the module and try. Why the fuse in the ignition wire?

I did not run a resistor but am considering. Upon further thought, I think what is happening is when cranking, I'm back feeding power to the electric cooling fan, electric water pump, electric fuel pump and electric vacuum pump, which is in fact easily overloading the 10a fuse.

 

[1973dodger]

As I suspected, the current was being back fed to the accessory items mentioned above, thereby causing the circuit to blow the fuse due to current being drawn through the HEI circuit. My solution was to use a 10A diode purchased on ebay which limits the current to flow in one direction only, thereby eliminating current being drawn through the circuit while cranking. My suspicions are; most on this forum don't have as many electrical accessories as I have and have not run into this problem if you use mechanical fuel pump, mechanical cooling fan, mechanical water pump and have enough vaccum for power brakes naturally. Goes to show you, when you start customizing features on your classic Mopar, one thing leads to something else down the line.

What I've learned;

-A ground going to the HEI module, if mounted to the chassis, will function better if a ground wire goes directly to the engine block to ground terminal on the module, instead of totally relying on a ground to the chassis. If existing ground connections to the block or chassis are suspect, could lead to resistance. If module is mounted to the distributor, it shouldn't be an issue.

-If using aftermarket ignition 3 terminal solenoids, you will need one for the cranking wire and one for the run wire, or else starter will continue to spin in run position. (Don't ask me how I know)

-If using a diode, be advised you will lose around 7/10ths of a volt to your HEI circuit, if that becomes an issue for you then you will need to find another solution. Hasn't been an issue for me to this point, I'm at 14v while running after diode.

If any other issues arise, I'll keep those interested posted.

 

[RJRENTON]

Bob,
The only person who is uneducated about the efficiency difference between a canister coil & an E core coil............is YOU. Find some PROOF & post it that claims that a canister coil produces a hotter spark.
The heat in the spark is what ignites the A/F mixture. That heat comes from secondary coil current.

The MSD Blaster 2 & 3 canister coils have a 140mA peak current.
The MSD Blaster 8207 E core coil has 300mA.
The high power MSD E core coils have sec currents ranging from 600 mA to...2 amps.

The only time current flows in the secondary is when the actual spark occurs...its NOT a range as noted by 600ma to 2 amps and it's limited by the impedance of the coil's secondary resistance AND it's core loss or I2r loss. How do you know the peak current is...did you measure it or that's what the advertisement said? How did you measure it? Sounds like guesstimates......not actual facts.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Geoff 2]

Nice try...

 

[1973dodger]

If any other issues arise, I'll keep those interested posted.

As promised, I will update issues.
After 7 HEI modules popping almost immediately in some cases, I have officially given up on the HEI experience on my 1973 Dodge Charger. I can not explain why some of the HEI modules worked for a short time, then popped, while the last 3 modules almost immediately popped. After throwing part after part at this problem (3 new coils, new ignition switch, new pickup coil, new starter {unrelated}, new coil wire and plugs) and hours of research, enough is enough. While yes, it's possible I've got something screwy with the wiring or HEI modules are not what they used to be, maybe. (even though using quality Elgin Nappa modules) Either way, I QUIT.

With all that said, I have since installed a FBO ignition box and it started right up. So, what conclusion do I come to? Too early to say, I've read somewhere some issues where there were clockwise versus counterclockwise distributors. I will leave it up to the experts here to debate why the HEI did not work for me. At this point, I don't know nor do I care, all I know is, it's finally starting and running. Make of that what you will.

 

[RJRENTON]

As promised, I will update issues.
After 7 HEI modules popping almost immediately in some cases, I have officially given up on the HEI experience on my 1973 Dodge Charger. I can not explain why some of the HEI modules worked for a short time, then popped, while the last 3 modules almost immediately popped. After throwing part after part at this problem (3 new coils, new ignition switch, new pickup coil, new starter {unrelated}, new coil wire and plugs) and hours of research, enough is enough. While yes, it's possible I've got something screwy with the wiring or HEI modules are not what they used to be, maybe. (even though using quality Elgin Nappa modules) Either way, I QUIT.

With all that said, I have since installed a FBO ignition box and it started right up. So, what conclusion do I come to? Too early to say, I've read somewhere some issues where there were clockwise versus counterclockwise distributors. I will leave it up to the experts here to debate why the HEI did not work for me. At this point, I don't know nor do I care, all I know is, it's finally starting and running. Make of that what you will.

With all the $$$, time and aggravation involved recently, there is a RB Prestolite Dual point distributor available on this site for approximately 400 dollars .....truly a plug and play installation.....remember this for the next time (and there WILL BE a next time) that the ECU box and related parts crap out, you could be cruising instead of fixing your car......remember....fancy gizmos don't work......JMO......
BOB RENTON

 

[Canadian1968]

As promised, I will update issues.
After 7 HEI modules popping almost immediately in some cases, I have officially given up on the HEI experience on my 1973 Dodge Charger. I can not explain why some of the HEI modules worked for a short time, then popped, while the last 3 modules almost immediately popped. After throwing part after part at this problem (3 new coils, new ignition switch, new pickup coil, new starter {unrelated}, new coil wire and plugs) and hours of research, enough is enough. While yes, it's possible I've got something screwy with the wiring or HEI modules are not what they used to be, maybe. (even though using quality Elgin Nappa modules) Either way, I QUIT.

With all that said, I have since installed a FBO ignition box and it started right up. So, what conclusion do I come to? Too early to say, I've read somewhere some issues where there were clockwise versus counterclockwise distributors. I will leave it up to the experts here to debate why the HEI did not work for me. At this point, I don't know nor do I care, all I know is, it's finally starting and running. Make of that what you will.

Well that sucks that you gave up on it. But glad to hear you are up and running. I just read threw the entire thread.

I dont think you ever clearly said how you had things wired up. It got very confusing when you started talking about adding diodes. Which you 100% do not need. I don't think you said what coil you were trying either ?

How is your wiring setup now with the FBO unit ? The FBO and the hei use the same wiring ( which is basically just removing the ballast resistor ) .

There are hundred of people that run the HEI conversion successfully, but there are hundreds that have problems to! Basically you just have to match the parts correctly (the correct coil is the key. ) and make sure your wiring is in proper working order.

 

[Canadian1968]

With all the $$$, time and aggravation involved recently, there is a RB Prestolite Dual point distributor available on this site for approximately 400 dollars .....truly a plug and play installation.....remember this for the next time (and there WILL BE a next time) that the ECU box and related parts crap out, you could be cruising instead of fixing your car......remember....fancy gizmos don't work......JMO......
BOB RENTON

Is there nothing that could fail in a point style system ?

" fancy gizmo don't work" not sure why you would say that ? If by gizmo you mean electronic style ignition , then i am totally confused what your talking about becuase they 100% absolutely do work .

There is no problem using the point style if you are happy with it. BUT if it was a superior design then why did every manufacturer on the planet starting using electronic style ignition system ?

I am genuinely interested as to your hatred for anything but point style system