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When I did mine a long time ago, I just used a couple scarp pieces of wood (likely 2x4s) with a "V" cut in them - bolted together with scrap bolts. I had a table saw, so that makes it easy... but another way to do it w/o spending $.

OE are the round wire spring clamps, I have a set similar to these. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/08100398

Strange, no it just a bad situation. Only one guy said many inch lean is expected. Rest said 1 inch or under. I'm looking to reduce axle wind up, while not making it so I can't safely drive the car off track. I suspect maybe the right side is not correct, by the way the shackle is...

Yes, that is what I wanted... but the ones the vendor sent me seem f-d up (see first msg). Not sure which one is wrong, thinking its the right side. I'm tempted to just buy both, again, and then compare with what I have.

Yeah, unless you really want it to look original. Also, not sure you can use the 70 sway bar on that one.. SummitRacing : Works with the E-Body sway bar or with the 1971-72 B-Body sway bar. Recommended for 1962-70 B-Body applications without a sway bar or with the E-Body sway bar and QA1...

Seems to be one on ebay, not the cheapest but at least it doesn't look rusty. Mopar #2535367 1970 Dodge, GTX, Charger B-Body Left Lower Control Arm | eBay

Its an acquired taste.

Thanks! I ended up ordering the bulkhead connector from Classic Industries, as well as other things I needed and got free shipping. Most everyone has the same price as was mentioned. Now to create the wire size/colors needed. Took me a while, but I finally created a spreadsheet of all the...

They must have been seriously overcompensating for that potential sag with extra arch. Do you drag race your car with those springs? If so, do they work well? When I bought those leaf springs, I was expecting to run the Dana 60 (3.54) and didn't have any plans to lighten the car...

These springs are: P3690454/P3690455 Front hanger kit is P4120105

Many inches difference in rear car height, side to side? This would be unstable on the road.

I have a set of the shorter front leaf MP competition leaf springs. I got them a really long time ago (like 15+ years ago), mailorder. Definitely not correct, the right side is way more arched than the left - causing the car to sit many inches higher on right side. I knew it when they showed...

Any good, yet economical, sources for these bulkhead plastic housings and plugs? I plan on rewiring my 1970 GTX with a higher amp alternator, electronic ignition, and a security system as well. Thanks!

I always used an in/lb beam type torque wrench, probably about 150 in/lbs. If the pan was flat and gasket surface clean, it sealed up nice.

I watched a youtuber mig a bolt onto that pin and pull it out enough to replace the o-ring. He did unhook the tailshaft housing bearing and I think he rotated the housing out of the way. I always used the flat rubber gasket with an inch-lb torque wrench - after making the pan flat with a body...

I have a Ryobi reciprocating saw (older blue version) that got WAY more useful with the newer lithium 18+ batteries. Fits in my 18" jyard toolbox, and I can walk into a jyard and have a floor+rocker or quarter cut off in no time.

If you really want a tictoc, find a complete rallye dash (not just cluster) with a blank or a clock, and buy a repro tach to replace the blank or clock. Or send your cluster out to be tested and repaired, and add a aftermarket tach to the steering column. If yours is an AT car, don't really...

I looked it up. By the description, it appears that it will maintain 13.5V - always. Which is likely a bracket racer consistency move, so that the ignition performance is consistent (predictable). 13.5V constant will not fry your battery. What it might do is not fully charge your battery...

I've seen pros recommending don't wash it until its disassembled.

Nobody sells a conversion kit to the later spool type mount? I could have sworn that was available.