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Hi,
I found your old question about using a BMW manual transmission behind a 3G Hemi and got curious if you ever did it? Have the same plans myself for my 68 Opel Commodore (currently has a CSB in it and I have a 6.1 engine sitting).
Thanks in advance,
Ulf in Sweden
It has nothing to do with rocking or un-normal side movments.
Hard to explain but the piston tops seems to have been milled in an angle, and all 8 look the some...
If every piston shows that same offset the issue is the top surface of the pistons not being perpendicular to the bore. The deck...
The problems are that the pistons are not square. The tops leans to one side. I have never seen anything like it but it might not be an issue. I haven't taking them out but I will so I can get a closer look at them. And the rings as you say, they might be bad. A little strange though that all...
Engine has been run with this combo and no signs of piston/valve contact so all good about that. Now I have found that cam is 4 deg retarded and I want to change that to 0 deg so will have to check clearance again after that. Anyway, how can pistons be "leaned" to the left?
Good point about...
I think you are correct about cam, .501 is pretty close to my measurements and when I tried to check advertised or full duration I got 295 degrees. Cam and lifters look all good so I decided to stick with the current stick. The only parts I will need is a set of pushrods.
One other weird thing...
You are perfectly right. I must have been drunk or something. Now I got my good indicator back so did it all over yesterday. Sorry again
All @ .050
Intake opens 14 deg BTDC
Closes 55 deg ABDC
249 deg duration
Lift .505
Take the numbers with a pinch of salt, as you already have figured out I’m...
I'm so sorry gentlemen, I beg your pardon! My post didn't come up by some reason and I have been busy on not been able to check my laptop...
Here is what I came up with:
217° @ .050 and .507" on intake. Way to small.
A buddy has an old purple shaft, 292° (248° @ .050) and .508 but it might be...
Got myself a 71 Duster a couple of years ago, seller had no clue of engine internals or nothing else but I got a good deal and bought it. Haven't had time for it until now.
340", Eddie heads, Torker intake, expensive red dp carb, newer crap MP distributor, Hooker Comp headers... that's what you...
Just leave it as it is. You see "cars restored to factory appearance" everywhere and it's just boring.
Also, restoring a car from 1970 to factory condition means you have to use only N.O.S. parts and finding laquer paint and spray it as bad as they did at the factory...
I would keep it the way...
With all the respect, I'm not looking for POWER.
I want to build a low rev engine for a cruiser/driver. Since the block is matching but need a rebuild I can get a 496 stroker kit for the same money as refreshing the crank and rods, buy new pistons and have the rotating assembly balanced. It...
I just uploaded an avatar on my street/strip Charger. Runs 7.15 on pump gas with a 440 with 906's.
I built it on a very low budget in my garage with all used parts.
The Super Bee is a different story. It will just be a nice quiet cruiser with the power band very low but lots of torque to smoke...
I have use for the 440 if I want, but I haven't decided what route go go yet...
That 440 as good as it is, but how I built it I need a higher stall converter and a steeper gear.
Building a matching numbers engine with tons of torque down low just tickles my mind...
It's not a screamer I'm looking to build. As I said I want to keep the original low stall converter and go with the original 3.23's. It needs to perform from just over idle.
I've been scanning the net now and it seems like 440 Source has the best pricing, can get a fully balanced 496" stroker...
Sorry my bad language. Of course it should be 'Building a MILD stroker based on a Chrysler 383" B block'
And if we are going to be picky, a 383 stroker could be built on many engines, not only Chebby 350's.
Last, a Mopar is a brand IIRC.
Found out yesterday that the 383 in my Super Bee was matching so now I have to rethink, I have a 440 for it ready to go in.
I think it is better to keep the 383 but it's not in the best condition. I haven't opened it since I pulled it last night but I guess it will need a total rebuild. Instead...
There's two different stories here. Hemi Orange/Tor Red EV2 is car paint but engine paint is engine paint with different codes. I think there was two different: Race Hemi Orange and later Hemi Orange.
My 71 Charger Super Bee is soon ready for paint and I have decided color, it will be Hemi Orange/Tor Red. The problem is that the actual color differs quite a lot between paint manufacturers. At a show I visited last year three Hemi Orange cars was parked aside and one was pinkish, one yellowish...