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We put our jack stands under the frame right in front of front spring hanger. Used a floor jack under the pumpkin. We had the wheels off as we were completely removing the rear diff. Replaced everything and rolled the diff back in place and bolted everything back together. We left all the bolts...

A lift will make your life easier. I put one in about seven years ago and was well worth it. Make sure you have a capable hammer drill. The anchors we had to put in were 3/4 of an inch. My Dad and I installed it in about four hours. Measure out the floor plan twice so you don't make a mistake...

Bought a reman unit from summit racing for the 65 coronet. $45. Looks good and fit perfect. Although the 65 has only one male spade plug. When he was looking mine up he showed me that alternator with the two spades. So I know they sell that one also.

65 coronet. There were no cables on this car when we got it except the front. There are two holes in the rear brackets. Which hole is right or does it not matter? Would like to use top hole to keep away from the exhaust. Anything wrong with that?

Ok sounds normal then. Just wasn't sure if it was always hot. I didn't take this car A part so I'm having trouble getting everything back together because I'm not sure where everything was connected before. Apart so I'm having trouble getting everything back together because I'm not sure where...

just putting this car together. All the wires look to be in proper location. When I hook the battery up there is power to the heavy gauge black wire all the time. Power is present at the bulkhead connector. Even with that wire disconnected from the bulkhead so I know power isn't coming from...

Thanks everyone. I found the black wire that needs grounded. I know there is a yellow wire. When I get back home today I will try it for sure. I'm sure that's all it is.

65 coronet. We converted to 4 speed. Also the body guy took off the shifter from the column. Now that we got the engine in it will not crank with the key. I'm thinking neutral safety switch. But I have no idea where it is located. I can jump the starter at the relay and it cranks. Any ideas?

I am talking about the brake pedal rod. This kit is only for cars that had single master cylinder non power brakes. It is converting to power. Since it specifically states for the non power car I wonder if I put the rod in the same hole that the original rod was in.

Forgot to mention this is on a 65 coronet.

anyone use ssbc brake kit a-156-1 I am installing it now and not sure which hole to put the brake rod in. There is two holes and upper and lower. Plus the rod is way too long to fit in either hole even when it's adjusted at the shortest length. Do I cut the threaded rod to make it short enough...

Yes that is what I needed. Thanks to member 65 coronet I have what I need. Much thanks to him.

Thank you everyone for your replies. It is great to have a website like this where everyone helps each other.

Pm sent

Any way to get around this without swapping transmissions?

If yours has the 4 inch flange and is about 56 inches long it would work. Let me know Thanks

Not sure. I know there are two sizes. The one I need the diameter where it bolts to the transmission is 4" and it is for a slant six or 273 engine. I need one from a big block car. Maybe someone will chime in that knows if they are different from stick to auto.

In that picture your headers are lower than your crossmember frame. Mine are higher. I found out that tti has a set of offset header reducers. Hedman also makes a set that are longer and offset. Going to try the hedman set. Was hoping to find something in stainless. Will take picture tomorrow...

Thank you. Sounds like this car never had it.

I can't seem to find the hole for the spring. Isn't it on the edge of the bell housing? I hooked it in a small gap where the starter mounts. If anyone has a picture of the bell housing out of the car with location that would be super. This car is fighting me one thing after another.