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I've ordered a new turn signal switch. Should be here today. Thank you for the help.

Just to be clear, I should put my meter on the white wire and press the brake, and if there is voltage, then the switch is bad?

For context, last year I had this problem. After many hours of sorting through everything, I found the signal switch wiring under the steering wheel to be the culprit. A wire that is riveted on came loose and touched another wire, causing the brake lights to stop working. A little solder and...

Thank you.

I might be in a situation where I have to sell my 1970 Plymouth Satellite. I'm just curious which forum I could post the specs and pictures and ask for a possible value for selling?

That looks great. I'm pretty sure the forum has convinced me not to cut my original hood up. I'm going to see what happens for work this winter, and might treat myself to a new hood next spring. Fibreglass, using hinges, with the A12 scoop.

So regarding the best fan for my application, I went to the source and spoke to a tech at Flex-a-Lite, and they a had a couple of interesting options for better cooling than the Derale 19" rigid fan that I currently have. The two options are below. The 19" flex fan was the option I would think...

Yeah. As I mentioned, it was for the 318 that was in the car originally. I can order a 19, which will fit the shroud properly.

I could try a 19" flex fan. I own a 17", but that was for the old 318. I could also grab a 195 stat as well. To be honest, the poor car, which just came out of storage the beginning of July, will be going back into storage in another 4-6 weeks. So we'll see what I get done this year. If I'm busy...

The engine had a clutch fan originally. It measured 20.5". The 440 was taken out of a 1977 New Yorker. I ran it for a while but couldn't get a shroud to fit it, so went to a 19" Derale solid fan, and a shroud from Mancini which fit up perfect.

I check the rad hoses when it's both hot and cold, and haven't seen any collapsing. The pulley size is OEM. Both the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. I've been told not to overspeed the water pump as too much velocity can actually hurt cooling as the fluid doesn't stay in the radiator...

Using spacers I've got that fan as close to 1/3 in the shroud as I can get. That was a point that was stressed to me two years ago when I bought the shroud. Thanks for making the point though.

I've not as of yet. I did check it when I got it out of storage in July, and it was still at 35 degrees total, where it always has been.

Sorry, yes I have a shroud from Mancini.

Unfortunately, the rad is not keeping the engine cool, unless I'm driving at a constant 30mph+. Cold Case 26" with 1.25" tubes. Flowkooler pump. Water wetter. Robert Shaw 180 stat. Derale 19" fan. Now do I believe the fresh air coming in will make a big difference? No, not huge, but something...

There is a tremendous amount of heat under that hood that I'd like to try to cool off. Between the aluminum heads, intake, and headers, it's crazy. The phenolic spacer helped the heat from sinking into then carb, but with that big hot 440 under there(484hp,565tq on the dyno sheet), I'm willing...

I've contacted Glasstek in Illinois. Do you have someone else in mind who can do a glass hood, where I can still use my hinges and latch(no hood pins)?

I've got a 440, with a Performer RPM intake, 1/2" phenolic spacer, and 800 AVS2, and the biggest drop air cleaner base that will clear the linkage, and you can still see the scratches from the nut, which has broken off both wings.

My 1970 Plymouth Satellite needs more fresh air to the engine compartment. I can't justify $2000+cad for a custom fibreglass hood. Below is a picture of the car, along with a close up of the hood, top and underneath. I love the A12 style scoop, but it wasn't used in 1970. I believe the Air...

The engine builder sells it as well as a local speed shop. A place in Winnipeg called Auto Parts Center.