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Check post #4 Davies Craig - above the pics. If you get a fan look for one with a big powerful fan motor. Sorry I do not have any pics of the sheet metal plate. Someone else will be able to post one hopefully. Someone listed one for sale a while ago.

On the Plymouth there is also a wind deflector plate that attaches to the front bumper and irons. Not sure about a Dodge. This directs the air when at speed to go through the radiator rather than "spill" under the car. You may get airflow problems at speed without the plate.

Yes 440 motor but stock. One fan does the job with zero problem. It will only operate at traffic lights never runs while the car is on the highway. I think the fan is rated around 2200 CFM. Position the fan at the top part of a downflow radiator core - this is where the water is hottest going...

It is a Davies Craig an Australian manufacturer.

I have the stock belts and pulleys - mounted a 16 inch pusher fan on the front of the stock 22 inch radiator. Not enough room behind the radiator even with stock pulleys. With no fan or shroud makes it much easier to change the oil filter and work on the front of the engine. Made two brackets...

What is the vacuum reading with the vacuum to the booster blocked off?

Assuming no leaks and the vacuum source on the carb/manifold is correct - it should not affect starting of the engine.

I bought the gauge style but I cannot remember the part number from Year One. Works correctly. Use sealer not thread tape.

That can also indicate the radiator is blocked.

To be sure the radiator is not the problem it needs to be rodded out by a radiator shop. They take the tanks off and clean out the core properly.

I said GENERALLY

Front shoes for any given diameter would generally be wider than a rear shoe. They would not generally be interchangeable.

What master do you have - needs to be disc/disc.

Start by clamping all three hoses. This will test the master cylinder and any possible issue in the booster.

Try clamping the hoses like I suggested before.

On a power brake car the pedal is a bit closer to the floor boards than a manual brake car. Did you set the adjustment on the booster pushrod? I guess the Bendix has one - can't remember.

You are probably better off to sort the problem at this point - swap spindle position, side etc. It will make maintenance in the future much easier.

You clamp the flexible rubber hose to say isolate the rear brakes etc. You can buy tools cheaply. Post #4 from Don is your problem.

Sounds like air somewhere. You can gently clamp rubber hoses to help find were it might be trapped. Do you see any fluid leaks?

This post got me thinking. I remember when I was an apprentice we had a shop multi tool with various size square tips for plug removal. I don't think this tool was a factory tool and I have not seen anything like it for many years.