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Yes!
It was a collapsed piston, #1 cylinder.
I replaced the piston, but unfortunately the cylinder was damaged some, so the knocking has subsided about 60%, but still some clattering. Probably going to bore/hone the block this winter to get it back to 100% and get rid of the remaining noise.
No bearing wear of note, plus I replaced them as a precaution.
I'm resigned to have to pull the engine and bring it to the machine shop for measurements (and probably extensive work).
Bore looks like you'd expect with the piston skirt scuffing... It corresponds to marks on piston.
Piston is stamped properly for ,030 over, which is what it should be.
Well.... head came off & there are no new leads. Despite knock clearly coming from #1 cylinder when spark plug pulled.... Nothing in the head, nothing damaged on the head, nothing out of the ordinary with the head (a little carbon build up, but nothing excessive).
Pulled the piston...
Thanks. I've taken the valve train apart a couple of times, checking for collapsed, stuck, or improperly installed items... even swapping out some items with no change in sound.
Not sure if I'm hoping for piston to head contact issues, but any identification and cure would be welcome at this...
I'm tracking. Sounds like a good option.
Engine was initially fired by builder. First for a break in then was dyno'd.
I have no idea how he did it, so could be. Oddly, the engine has run without this type of noise, adding to the mystery.
Nonetheless, all signs point to a problem in#1 cylinder.
Done. Harmonic balancer was checked (all good), and crank end play was double-checked...once when front timing was checked and again when rod bearings were checked and replaced. Also checked main bearings & all was in order.
Thanks all. I've resigned myself to pulling at least the driver's side head to look at/remove #1 piston.
The distributor drive & bushing are good... checked those when I tore apart the timing set.
Will post the findings this weekend. No time until then.
Hey, maybe my luck will turn and...
Thanks,
A cracked piston/skirt may be the only option left (man, I hope not). I inspected the piston, rod, and piston walls when inspecting/replacing the rod bearings and it all looked good. I thought maybe if I tapped on the underside of the piston with a piece of wood it would make a...
Yes. It is an automatic, and I checked the bolts on the torque converter. All are tight, none have wear, and none are hitting anything. Ran with the inspection cover plate off too and no change. Plus, sound is definitely further away from there when I laid under it. :(
Hi all. Not a frequent poster, but have exhausted all normal ideas on diagnosing a loud knocking sound (sounds like rod knock) in my '68 Charger, but can't find the culprit.
The engine is a flat-tappet hydraulic cammed 440, .030 over, built by Muscle Motors (now defunct) in 2014 and only has...