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Things look different in the better light this morning. There is a small lip on the edge of the heads that is keeping the manifold from seating all the way down. I think if I grind that lip off the manifold will seat better. I suspect I will still need that bead of silicone on the ends though.

I bought (what I thought was an Edlebrock) aluminum manifold for my 1968 318. I tried to install it today and found it doesn't fit. When it is flush with both heads there is like a 3/8 inch gap between the top of the block and the bottom of the manifold. Am I missing something?

Thanks!... everyone

Yep that was it, that sucker was ON there! First I tried hitting it with a rubber mallet to no avail. So I took a 2x4 and a sledge hammer and that did the trick.

WOW I'll say they must to stay on with nothing holding it LOL

For the record I should mention that I have been working on cars for 51 years, I started in 1970. That is exactly what I expected to see. But this is what I got:

I feel stupid asking this but I started to do a tune up on my 1968 Satellite the other day and at first glance I couldn't see how the distributor cap is held on. I got interrupted and haven't gotten back to it. In looking at the new and the old caps they have slots on the sides for spring...

I discovered a couple of days ago that Mancini Racing had a disc brake conversion kit and I decided that was a better long term solution since I hope to have this car for a long time.

Thank you, that helps A LOT!

Besides the rotors, what other parts does one need to convert to disc brakes? Spindles and calipers, no doubt. Master cylinder?

COMPLETELY OFF TOPIC: Being on disability has been... an adjustment. When I lost my job because of the MS and went on disability I have $100 less in my pocket every single day. I am extremely happy that I got disability, don't know what we would have done without it. But it is weird to think...

I saw it I'm seriously considering that, I need to find out how much shipping is. I'm on disability and it's the end of the month, I don't have $70 to spend at this moment. If shipping isn't outrageous, I will probably pick those up in April. Like you said it would be good to have extra...

If you do get some amount for shipping, please do let me know I'm very curious now.

Someone in Mexico also has some hubs, so I put that info into the UPS online calculator and all of the shipping options came back over $100 dollars. I definitely can't do that. I'm attempting another repair (my first one failed). If that still doesn't work, I may investigate what Copper67sat...

Well... I don't know, I filled in all the data in the UPS form and all the shipping options came back over $100. I don't remember them all but the one was like $143. I tried to see what it would be to send it "Freight" instead of "Package" but it wanted all sorts of information that I wasn't...

You are right you can't see the damage in that picture, that was after my attempt to repair it and reassemble it. that is just where it is damaged. The repair didn't last. I don't think I have a good picture of it before.

Funny, now I have someone in both Canada and Mexico, with some. I believe my spindles are okay, I imagine it would be cheaper to just ship the drums. I just went and weighed my hub and drum (they are rusted together) and they weigh 18 lbs. I tried to get an estimate from UPS and FexEx, but...

I made a WTB post, I've no clue what to expect from that. Any wild guesstimate as to what the shipping cost to send something like that?

I need a front wheel hub for my '68 Satellite. The brake drum appears to be fairly rusted to the hub, so it seems like it would be easiest to have both. I live in Salt Lake City, Utah and I have PayPal.