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Yep, that is the same set-up that was optional on the 1970 RoadRunner. Single piston caliper with round slider pins. I have this exact conversion on my 1964 Polara. They actually came off a 1970 RR about 40 years ago. The spindles are interchangeable side for side. I hung my calipers at the...
Those are Jeg's Sport Torque 15 X 7; kind of a Chinese knock-off of Torque Thrust. I found the R/T sticker on E-bay; same diameter as wheel hub. $10.00 for the set of 4, so on they went. I have had people ask if they were an optional wheel because of matching R/T hub.
Welcome to FBBO from Ontario. Thanks for your picture on first post. Congratulations on your '67 Belvedere buy. I really like the colour, but I am a little biased. Picture of my '67 R/T.
I once built a phantom 1967 R/T wagon, complete with 440, 4-speed. I adapted an Inland handle to a Hurst shifter to keep a factory look. The T-bar no longer worked, and I put a spring under the shifter knob to keep it from rattling.
From my experience, use a Wix filter, not Fram. From an earlier post, if a pushrod bends and a lifter pops out of its bore (highly unlikely), you would have NO oil pressure, not just low.
I have used the Firm Feel rear bar on my 1967 R/T with no fitment problems. It works great. It resembles the factory bar used in some E-bodies. It mounts to the frame rails instead of rear axle, so is unsprung weight.
Sometimes people take the guys out of the governor assembly and remove kickdown linkage when installing a manual valve body. This stuff has to be present for a full automatic valve body to work.