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Good call. Thinking logically, I feel like that’s the only thing it could be. That being said, I’m probably not going to pull this motor until either I’ve got my 408 and 4 speed setup ready to go in or the little 318 gives up on me.

Clearly, but the question still stands. I guess either the flywheel is too close to the gear or Vice versa in its retracted position.

Yes. I assume that’s the thin piece of metal that gets pinched between the starter and bell housing.

Okay, update. I reinstalled the starter with two spacer washers on each bolt and it’s fixed. So shimming was the answer, but now there’s a space between the bell housing and starter. Do they make actual shims for MoPar starters?

I thought that MoPars never used shims. I thought that was just a GM thing. Huh. I’ve gotta be honest, I’m not even sure what shimming a starter would entail as I’ve never had to do it.

I attempted to search the site for this issue to no avail, so here goes. When I first got my Charger, it had one of the enormous, original style starters, so when it died, I replaced it with a mini starter for a 90s magnum motor. First, I tried a used one, and it made a horrible racket while...

That’s fine, but the question is, “which one?”

Well, I just don’t wanna have to play with pulling headers anymore. Some of the bolt heads are impossible to get to with anything other than an open ended wrench. Plus, when the back two bolts come out, the holes will shoot coolant down the exhaust and all over the gasket unless I drain some...

Thanks. I did try searching. Maybe I was just too stupid to find somebody else with my exact engine and header combo that found a setup that works. Sorry ‘bout that.

Aight, I never want to have to fight another starter to fit between my headers again. It’s a 318 in my ‘72 Charger with Hooker long tube headers. The stock style mini starters for a Durango or Dakota will fit if I wrestle, pry, and bleed for hours, but I’m done with it. Do any of you know of an...

Got it. Thank you so much.

Hi, all. I made an oopsie and slightly chowdered the threads on the end of my mainshaft. I don’t own a press, so I had to pound on the end (with the nut on) with a hammer to get the mainshaft bearing off. It worked fine last time I did it with no damage to the nut or the mainshaft threads, but I...

Super, super useful information. I’m so glad I joined this site. I guess I’ll return the unopened installation kit and get the correct stuff from Brewer’s. Would a regular ‘68 to ‘70 B body non-console shifter like the one pictured work fine with the dog bone setup?

Never mind, I found it on Brewer’s. But what does it do and why is it necessary? Does it just move the shifter location back a little, meaning I’d need longer rods?

Very cool, thank you. While looking for options, I noticed Holley sells new Hurst Competition/Plus shifters, along with the rods, levers, and mounting plate and they CLAIM that it works with all 1966 to 1972 Chargers. With or without console. I went ahead and got the installation kit with rods...

I should also note that the trans that I have is a really early (I think 1964) a833 with only the front shifter mount and the ball and trunnions u joint.

I just got paid, so I’m going to start getting together parts to do a four speed swap on my ‘72 Charger non-console, starting with shifter, shifter rods, and levers. Stylistically, I would prefer a relatively early Hurst shifter with the white ball, but I have no idea if it would work. I have...

Huh. I figured that if I used an adapter on the trans, it would effectively create a complete slip joint, wouldn’t it? Also, the driveshaft pictured is obviously a Dennys unit, but exactly what driveshaft of theirs would I need? Like what’s different about it compared to the one I have...

Probably a dumb question, but why?

Bruh thank you so much. That’s certainly what I’ll do then. I’m glad you all are so helpful and nice rather than judgy. For the most part.