Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd say that was more just a film with concert footage and a few odd scripted fantasy scenes thrown in... this new one is a proper documentary, as per the usual definition.
I'm seeing it on Thursday, cant wait! :D
I'm grateful I got to see them over here in 1979 at the first of 2 open air gigs...
We know we have a vacuum leak on our 63 Polara 500's intake so have got a gasket set ready to fit over the next week or two but are wondering what type of seals are supposed to be used under the 6x access hole plugs... can anyone here advise what's best to ensure they don't cause a leak too?
We...
Good answer, thanks :thumbsup:
The build sheet we got says the cup depth is 0.320 but that's under the heading of 'tappets'. Would that be the depth in the top of the lifter or under the rocker where the pushrod (hopefully) locates?
That is a lot of plunger travel, I was told it was more like 0.140" !
The Hughes info I have says for cast iron heads and block, use .120" -.140" pre-load, which is waaaay more than any other recommendations I've seen.
They are 3/8", 24 tpi, ie 1 full turn = 0.0417", so our 3/4 turn is only 0.03125", so well short of being mid-way thru the lifter plunger's travel :rolleyes:
Thanks.
But if (roughly speaking) 1/4 turn = 15 thou and your 1/2 turn = 30 thou, then Hughes' recommended 120 thou = 2 full turns, so something doesn't add up!
That's why I'm trying to find some info specific to Mopar Performance.
Hi all,
Firstly, yes I have searched on here and I've seen there is already quite a bit of preload info, but I couldn't see any that relates specifically to the cam and lifters we have.
Koffel built us a 440 stroker a few years ago and the build sheet says it's a P5007698 cam. Googling only...
Haha.. confession time... we only have the stock temp gauge, in the dash :(
It's only when the needle goes over to the right, near the double-line at the hot end that we start to worry.
Even if we just had the electric fan on a switch to enable us to bring the temp down when it starts getting...
I had a look at the fan / shroud overlap and the back of the fan blades are approx 5/8" behind the back of the shroud. So maybe a bit more than 1/2 way inside the shroud but certainly not fully covered by the shroud...