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Maybe you could post some pics of the install and finished product?

Holley's carburetor facility is in Bowling Green, KY. For several years due to covid they were mandated by law that they could only have so many employees within so many square feet and so on and it really killed the profitability of the carburetor business. Several legacy lines were forced to...

Even better!

THE WHITE ELEPHANT!!!

One of my '77 W100's just had this problem. Everything worked except the brake lights. Switch tested good. Continuity through the turn signal switch (that was the first thing I checked). Turned out to be a bad connection in the bulkhead connector...

The old way was to offset grind the rods to take a big block Chevy rod and then have custom pistons made. 440 Source has all the stroker information on their site. They put together complete rotating assembly kits that will mostly just drop in...

:rofl:

Here’s a neat trick for popping off that pesky drip rail molding: For those that don’t FB, he’s using the square end of an old bottle opener with some masking tape around it to protect the finish to very quickly pop the drip rail molding off of a ‘70-‘72 Chevelle…

I prefer the look of the tach only. I don't like sitting in the car when it's off and hearing the clock run...

Type F doesn't have any friction modifiers in it. Because of that it will offer a firmer shift than Dex/Merc (or any other ATF for that matter). Type F isn't suitable for anything with an overdrive, one could use it in an TF but Dex/Merc or ATF+4 are better choices. The thing about Dex/Merc...

I have found that asking the butcher to grind you some chuck is sufficient for getting really good ground beef for burgers.

That's my problem, once it runs and drives it doesn't get worked on anymore. I have to save that part for last!

Just stick the tip of the torch in the hole, let it heat for a few seconds and then bury the oxygen lever. Blow the damn thing out of there. The manifold and the head have enough thermal mass that you can liquefy that bolt without damaging anything else. I used to own a muffler shop and I...

The cracks are usually just superficial between the valves. I haven't seen many that were cracked enough to leak coolant. Usually a head gasket.

One cannot assume that master cylinders for different applications are the same even though they look the same. They often have different size bores but share the same casting. In this case, I believe that they are indeed the same and both applications use a 1" bore.

This is the best I can do at the moment. This car was only on the road from 68-71, I'm sure everything is original. I don't have a closer photo or access to the car right now (it's in TX and I'm in WA).

Clearing over garbage never makes anything better. Anything "patina" that is cleared over will turn to **** quickly if left outdoors. And it turns to a level of **** that cannot be mitigated other than by stripping everything off and starting over. I don't know why people have the idea that...

I leave the twist in, because installation is reverse of removal. No need to bend it up more than necessary!

Due to their nature they are simple to mask effectively. Just make sure to take a sharp razor blade and remove any vinyl top residue that's poking out from under them, and then use a razor to trim the masking tape right at that inner edge. It's pretty much impossible to tell that they were...

You have it sized up correctly. It is just pressed on over the drip rail. It is normally difficult to remove without damaging it. I'm not a body guy, I try to mask around it usually. If you're going back with a vinyl top you'll have to get it off. I recommend going slowly and maybe picking...