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I watched this video last night. Disregarding the Carb Cheater, what do you guys think about the carb adjustment he demonstrates, about seating the carb mixture screws, then unscrewing them 2 full turns (I believe with an Edelbrock, the recommendation is 2.5 turns out), then using vacuum to...

Nice, four '69 500's in one pic. That doesn't happen every other day...

From a GN owner, that's a good one...most people who ask that question aren't joking, though. :lol:

POR-15, DOM16, Rust Bullet aren't just paint. They're rust converters. So is Evaporust, which you also recommended a few posts ago. Not everyone can afford new sheetmetal for every part with a rusty surface. If it's strong enough to stop a screwdriver jab, then it'll be good enough for a cleanup...

How will the adhesive hold up over time? I've not had good success with Made in China adhesive anything. It does look very nice, though.

Graham Greene was a great actor, his parts were well-acted in all his movies. RIP. I think up here, unless the political landscape has changed, First Nations is the correct term.

To add to the complexity, if it's like the taillight finish panel on a '70 Charger, those are bright-anodized before painting the semi-gloss black parts. And anodizing that's faded can't really be re-polished, it has to be chemically stripped before re-polishing (and re-anodizing, if desired, to...

Sounds promising. Wire wheel, vacuum, degrease and apply Rust Bullet, POR-15, DOM16 (Canadian version of POR-15 that is less pricey up north), Corroseal or Evaporust.

Can you jab a screwdriver through it?

Indeed it is. If you have a rusty bumper, refinishing and painting it is a more affordable alternative. And on some B-Bodies, looks great (IMO, not every car has to look like a dozen other stock-looking restorations). If I did my '70 Charger that way, it'd look like a bazillion other F8...

EDIT: Unfortunately these didn't work. The T5 bulbs fit fine, but the plastic housing outside diameter is only 18mm; the original housing diameter is about 23mm so these Amazon units are too small for the hole in the circuit board. I found these on Amazon, they look correct. And only $13.59 CAD...

Mine looked good when I cleaned the firewall bulkhead connectors earlier this summer. Grendel lives...resurrection of a 1970 Charger 500 That said, to prevent future issues, I'll be jumpering the 2 ammeter posts before reinstalling the instrument panel.

My seats and console are out as I put in new carpets about a month ago.

I'll be replacing all the bulbs with LEDs. One odd thing I discovered is one of the black twist-on bulb housings was completely missing. Can you buy those black housings anymore? I see the kind with pigtails but not these twist-in housings.

I lowered the steering column a bit and was able to disconnect everything from the back of the instrument panel and got it removed. Shot the inside with compressed air while running the shop vac, then wiped/brushed everything I could reach with Sprayway cleaner. I was pleased how things cleaned...

Thanks, someone gets it. :) Reconnecting everything back to the instrument panel without having plenty of slack makes this an unnecessarily arduous task. With the bulkhead removed and pulled, you can connect everything to the panel easily, then reach in and press in the bulkhead last. No engine...

@1:14

That's exactly how mine are, for the hood bumpers.

I know, but I watched one video on YT saying that it's much easier to remove it completely to clean everything without it being still attached to the firewall, and also easier to reinstall once everything is reconnected, by first reconnecting the firewall bulkhead. With no slack, you can't...

Thanks guys.