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Does make me wonder… I think I had a few episodes of the tank overflowing before I replaced the pump but not to this extent….

First two are from my current 62 Fury. Third pic is from a 62 Savoy I had years ago.

I know there’s a spring in my lower hose as I replaced both hoses last year too.

The radiator is the one that was in the car when I got it, no change. I took it out when I had to pull the front apart to check the timing chain. Figured while it was apart I’d replace the pump and all. The price difference between high flow and stock was so low I went with the high flow. I had...

Should have mentioned too that I am trying NOT to make any modifications from original on this car ( which is really tough to do). Even so, a catch can would catch the puke but not solve the over heating? Pulling the plugs to flush the block is a pretty radical step that I’d like to avoid is...

Radiator was flushed last year. One other thing I forgot to mention is that my heater lines are plugged off at the firewall (heater valve was leaking).

No overflow tank as there weren’t any used in 62’,

Agreed. Grill is in great shape and the radiator has minimal bug damage so I think it’s getting the proper airflow. No radiator shroud but they weren’t on many cars in 62.. lower hose has a spring in it.

My 62’ Fury, pretty stock 361/4bbl, original style fan and a non original (but correct) 22” 3 core radiator with a 13psi cap. Last year i installed a new high flow water pump and a 160-5 t stat. The T stat is a fail open type. Most of my local cruising around I’ve been trouble free. On warmer...

Licensed reproductions run around $750…

Sorry, I forget what I wound up with in there. I did get it to stop but not sure what size I used…

One of the attempts, I had found the amp gage isolator broken and I made a piece out of rubber and tried it but still had the short. This time I bought and installed a new Amp gage with a perfect isolator, thinking this was the problem. I was hoping someone could tell me how to bench test the...

Can anyone think of a way to test a complete dash panel/ cluster before installing it to make sure it is not shorted anywhere? I’m specifically talking about a 62-3 dash panel. I have built a new dash cluster for my 62 but every time I try to install it I get a short from something. I have tried...

Agggg, another loose wire. Black wire to the ignition switch had pulled loose…

Got one, I’m trying to make sense of it…

No power to either the black or red wire at the flasher plug…. Also found that my wipers aren't working - and they are connected by the black wire. Black wire from the flasher goes to a junction where a line comes off the the wiper switch and another that goes to the ignition switch. Does the...

You know, I used hand signals coming home the other night but it also occurred to me that I bet very few people on the roads know what they mean anymore. I could just see someone running into me no knowing…

Back to the flashers though - is it normal to have resistance across the thermal flasher and none across the electronic? Any conceivable problems using the electronic one in this car?

Thanks panora, I’ll give it a try. Nothing I hate worse than electrical problems under the dash. I’m too old and fat to get under the dash and it’s a pain to keep taking the seat in and out…

That’s a simple enough test for the flasher. Never thought of that. I’ll try it tomorrow, although I am suspecting one of the other two possibilities…. Any suggestions for testing the switch in place?