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i would look at 60's era dodge trucks.

all the ones i have seen are black. that was put on at the factory after the car was painted, so it should be a diff color.

maybe its $25 per pound of rust. that must be how he got his #.

i like the poly lock mounts for the street. much less vibration with no breaking.https://www.manciniracing.com/newmapopomom.html

pics for cut point.

todays 2 part epoxys are pretty damn strong. more then likely far stronger then any press in place would be.

fender

did mine by myself. used 2 ratchet straps,attached to beams in garage, to hold the doors. worked great.

only guess i would have is some kinda cover pad for quick release wheel when off the car. no idea how it would attach to wheel though.

here is a pic. would love the whole end but would settle for that top end.

i found some old,bad, body work hidden in my rear drivers quarter.(sorry no pic at this time) pretty much need to replace last 4 inches and down about 6 inches on end of "fin". very complex piece of metal and i dont have the metal working tools to build it.my question is, is there any body...

the key here is track vs street use. the traction at the track is so much more of a hit on the rear that there is no comparison. if used as a drag car, you have to switch to the 60.

funny how this turned into a truck thread given the op.lol.

i use dzus fasteners. i like the flush mount and you can paint them to match the hood. as said before, a quarter can open them, so no need for special tool.

when ever brake lights are part of problem, i like to start at the switch. power in and out, prob is in the rear of vehicle. no power in, prob is in the dash or column.

witch is about the only place that can effect both at the same time. check for power at your brake light switch just to seperate the rear from the front.

i used a 79 dodge truck master on my 67 conversion with a simple adjustable prop valve to the rear drums. had to modify the firewall plate and run a conversion adapter(was originally power brake car switched to manual) stops pretty damn good and i run about 650 horse.

be carefull. that writing could mean it has been rebuilt using an old housing. take it to a rebuilder and let them take it apart, or just get a new one. just trying to say the #'s may not be correct for what is inside.

slinger does 2 things. puts oil onto chain and protects the crank seal.

just make sure to chock the wheels. had a 4 speed car slip off the jack(backwards) and that was the end of the radiator.