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I ran Seymour's Cast Blast on mine. Like you say I'll see how long it holds up.

Just checked the part book. Two different part numbers. So sorry my picture is no use to you. 727 wo 426 engine 2466-302 with 426 engine 2538-849

My 727 on my 70 Charger is connected to a 383 Magnum. Not sure if it makes a difference?? Might be different to allow for different angles around the elephant?? But I would have thought it would have been longer?

From what I understand, they used the tags until the 70 model year.

Thanks KoolBee! I marked everything with center punch marks. Caps, locks, bearing capture nuts. Everything. Rechecked the backlash, pinion preload, and the gear pattern. Everything seem to come out perfect or at least the same as before I started. I can't believe the comparison on the gear tooth...

Well today was the day. Well to tear down my original differential any way. Marked every thing on it I could. Right down to the bolts and locks. Documented the adjuster positions and thread reveal. Once she was apart and cleaned up a bit more, it was time for blasting. Another page out Wayne's...

Finally made it to town this morning picked up some gear marking compound. Checked the pattern with the zinc ointment and the proper compound. You can certainly see it better with the compound but you can also make it out with the zinc. Drive pattern looks good I figure and from what I've heard...

That's what I've always been told.

Thanks RemCharger Spare axels I had kicking around. Wrapped it well with gorilla tape before cinching her down in the vice just the same. One never knows if you'll need them.

Installed a new clutch kit this morning. Had the axels in just like RemCharger picture. Snugged them down. Didn't torque them. Tried to get axels out. Jammed in solid. Loosen the bolts off. Tried again. This time kept flipping the housing up and down. Time and time again. Making sure the the...

Well Rem and Run Chargers. Brothers?? You guys trying to confuse me? lol Really appreciate the help guys! Yes was planning on checking backlash before removing diff. And I tried this morning to see the gear pattern. I have no gear compound so i looked for stand in on the net. tried anti seize...

Check the pinion preload before disassembly with a beam torque wrench? RemCharger and one more question. The diff case bolts are normal threads correct? Righty tighty? 1967 case.

Yes Sir. I thought the side gears line up the splines for the axel to slide in? So will it take much setting up since I'm not planning on touching the pinion? Maybe a little bit?

Seem to have deleted my earlier post. But you guys will get the jest. Now RemCharger, So I should have no problems changing the bearings and cups to the 489? So why would I need to put the axels in while torqueing the caps? And thanks for your reply.

Like the title says. I'm just installing a clutch type diff in my 489. I'm not removing the pinion and I'm going to switch over the original ring gear to the sure grip. I'm using the same carrier bearings and cups that came with the 742. They will fit right? Anything else I should be aware of...

Phosphate coat so sort of a darker charcoal color. Check out dadsbee resto thread a great read lots and lots of info for you there. It's a sticky. Once you start reading you wont stop.

Welcome aboard xxWLx Plans for the old work horse?? There should be a pad at the front of pass side block right under the distributor more or less that would say it's a 383.

When I had the 340 in my 80 R/T I tore two set of spider gears out of her one summer. Use to keep a spare set in the trunk tool box. Certainly not normal everyday wear and tear. Funny, never had a issue after 340 had a timeout:lol:

^^^ Good ole basics never fail.^^^

Yes a 489 has a cone type but the clutch set up fits right in. 10-4