Installing clutch type sure grip in a 489 just the differential. A few questions.

[Islandkent]

Like the title says.
I'm just installing a clutch type diff in my 489. I'm not removing the pinion and I'm going to switch over the original ring gear to the sure grip. I'm using the same carrier bearings and cups that came with the 742. They will fit right? Anything else I should be aware of? Reverse threads on the ring gear right? lefty-tighty right? As I'm going to install a new set of clutches before putting it together. I'm looking at the 67 FSM for the specs and what nots. The diif came out of a 67 Charger.
Oh yes, some say to use red thread locker on the bolts on the case bolts and the ring bolts. Correct? I marked the caps and the bearing cap adjusters. measured back lash at the yoke. Since it's a different diff but with the same gears will i have to set up the rear end side play? With the gear marking compound/paste?
Any other tips would be gratefully appreciated.

 

[MCODECUDA]

Do not switch the bearing caps from the 742 on to the 489 since the caps and the housings were machined as a matching assembly. This is the same reason why you match mark the caps to the assembly. If you don’t the threads for the adjuster won’t match up.

 

[RemCharger]

Follow the manual. Mark the caps. Cant throw those around like jenga blocks.
The carrier bearings are different, but both fit. I just did a SG rebuild and there was no threadlocker, but wouldn't hurt. Don't be afraid to torque the **** out of them. You need the axles in the splines while doing it.

 

[RemCharger]

Sorry. I better change that right away. I meant the bearing cup not the cap. Thanks for the reply.

Bearing cups always stay with their cone.
That goes for all tapered rollers.

 

[Islandkent]

Follow the manual. Mark the caps. Cant throw those around like jenga blocks.
The carrier bearings are different, but both fit. I just did a SG rebuild and there was no threadlocker, but wouldn't hurt. Don't be afraid to torque the **** out of them. You need the axles in the splines while doing it.

Seem to have deleted my earlier post. But you guys will get the jest.
Now RemCharger, So I should have no problems changing the bearings and cups to the 489? So why would I need to put the axels in while torqueing the caps?
And thanks for your reply.

 

[RemCharger]

You bet.
The axles need to be in the splines of the SG unit while you're reassembling it.
So you can put your axles back in.
Not fun when you skip that part.

 

[RemCharger]

Lots of **** going on in that picture lol

 

[RemCharger]

Seem to have deleted my earlier post. But you guys will get the jest.
Now RemCharger, So I should have no problems changing the bearings and cups to the 489? So why would I need to put the axels in while torqueing the caps?
And thanks for your reply.

The outer diameter of all carrier bearing cups are the same. I assume you are using the clutch unit with the bearings/cups it came with.

 

[Islandkent]

Yes Sir.
I thought the side gears line up the splines for the axel to slide in?

So will it take much setting up since I'm not planning on touching the pinion? Maybe a little bit?

 

[RemCharger]

Yes Sir.
So will it take much setting up since I'm not planning on touching the pinion? Maybe a little bit?

In the perfect world it's set exactly the way it came apart. So if you can closely match the backlash you measured, that's as good as you can get.
Check that the pinion preload is sug/tight

 

[Islandkent]

Check the pinion preload before disassembly with a beam torque wrench? RemCharger and one more question. The diff case bolts are normal threads correct? Righty tighty? 1967 case.

 

[Runcharger]

Measure backlash before pulling the diff out of the case. If it is in spec that's a really good sign and you want that same number when you set the backlash after the diff swap. When you pull the diff out, then you need to measure how much torque to rotate the pinion gear and that it turns smoothly over a full rotation. If there isn't enough preload on the pinion gear and it turns too easily then it get's to be more work.
Backlash is measured on the ring gear, not on the yoke. I lock the yoke in a vice, set up the dial indicator on the ring gear and wiggle it forward and backwards.
Also check the gear pattern on the ring gear to make sure it looks right.

 

[Islandkent]

Well Rem and Run Chargers. Brothers?? You guys trying to confuse me? lol
Really appreciate the help guys!
Yes was planning on checking backlash before removing diff. And I tried this morning to see the gear pattern. I have no gear compound so i looked for stand in on the net. tried anti seize, brake lube, and zinc ointment. Wasn't getting good results. Meaning hard to make out. going to see if any compound is around our small town. Any suggestions on DIY gear lash compound?
Now Runcharger you say check the pinion preload once the diff is out? Wow what would that be? Can't seeing it being very much. Is that spec in the fsm? You would check it by putting the 1/4" beam torque wrench on the yoke yes??
Yes everything is nice and tight on my 489 case. Only 23000 miles on the car. So almost like new.

Thanks for all the help once more.

 

[1KoolBee]

I’ve done the same swap except I bored the ring gear holes in the SG flange for the larger shouldered 489 style ring gear bolts from ARP and I installed a Ratech crush sleeve eliminator. You might want to mock up the setup without the ring gear installed and check the runout of the suregrip’s ring mounting face. If it’s out more than a few thousandths, I’d have it machined flat or you will never get the backlash where you need it. ( factory manual will tell you to throw the suregrip away and buy a new one -lol) Then just follow the factory manual’s installation instructions. You’ll need a torque wrench that can do left hand threaded bolts.

 

[Runcharger]

23,000 miles. I assume it was quiet. Assemble it, set backlash the way the factory manual tells you to the original backlash setting then. Check it in 4 spots and send it.

 

[Islandkent]

Installed a new clutch kit this morning. Had the axels in just like RemCharger picture. Snugged them down. Didn't torque them. Tried to get axels out. Jammed in solid. Loosen the bolts off. Tried again. This time kept flipping the housing up and down. Time and time again. Making sure the the thrust spacers moving freely. Even sliding the whole apparatus up and down making sure it was sliding freely as I was tightening the bolts. Even tightening the bolts as the case was upside down. Got here done. Axels sliding in and out freely, thrust spacers sliding back and forth. Good to go! Wow what a nice smell off the clutch friction additive. I put that s@#& on everything! lol

 

[RemCharger]

Nicely done!

 

[Islandkent]

Thanks RemCharger
Spare axels I had kicking around. Wrapped it well with gorilla tape before cinching her down in the vice just the same. One never knows if you'll need them.

 

[Islandkent]

Finally made it to town this morning picked up some gear marking compound. Checked the pattern with the zinc ointment and the proper compound. You can certainly see it better with the compound but you can also make it out with the zinc. Drive pattern looks good I figure and from what I've heard the drive side is the most important one to read? The coat side is rather low. Any comment on the coast? When I put her back together I will be trying for both the same patterns.

 

[Islandkent]

Well today was the day. Well to tear down my original differential any way. Marked every thing on it I could. Right down to the bolts and locks. Documented the adjuster positions and thread reveal. Once she was apart and cleaned up a bit more, it was time for blasting. Another page out Wayne's aka "dadsbee" to keep the media out of the pinion. Then a quick coat of cast blast. Going to let the paint cure for a few days until my next set of days off. So this evening I thought I would fabricate spanner wrench for the carrier bearings adjuster nuts. Couple of hours on the lathe and mill and I'm sure she'll do the trick.
Enough for today.