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I'm sure some have seems Richard's videos before...seems to be pretty knowledgeable on Mopar stuff.

That wonky 59* lifter bank angle is a carry over from the A engine of the 1950s. It was needed to get a pushrod to work on the Poly head where the intake and exhaust rockers faced opposite sides of the head. W2 heads deal with pushrod angles by using long valves and raised blocks under the...

How the heck could those guys even race without any ChiCom parts? Ludicrous....

Get them measured at a machine shop ....most of those import rods need to be fixed

Since your stock Mopar cam was made to perform best with .903 lifters I would find a cam made for that lifter. Unless you specify that you are buying a cam made to a Chevy spec lifter. 90% of all shelf cams are Chevy lifter grinds. Yes it matters. That .903 lifter gives near roller cam...

These photos will be valuable to me in a short time when I get the front end done on my 318...thanks.

Whichever work....

With your car on it's wheels use an angle finder on your carb air horn. The engine may bolted in in the wrong angle.

Unhook the rods from the shifter body. There is a hole that goes thru the body and levers. Slide a 5/16" rod or bolt into the shifter body from the left side....that will center the levers. Adjust the rods so they easily slide into the arms. You are done. Several YouTube videos explain it.

Who you calling....hold on I gotta finish my Geritol...ok...who you calling old timer? Young whippersnapper!!!!

Rainbow Head....very popular in San Francisco I hear...

Yes I can ....been trucking 52 years but I can say I have never seen that before. Be between my son and I we have owned two dozen trucks...I guess we're just out of touch!

I use an Indianhead sealer...have for 60 years

I was watching a video where the mechanic was changing exhaust manifold studs on a Detroit 8V92 diesel....the studs go into water in the heads. The guy backed the studs about 90% out then his assistant stuffed a running shop vac into the radiator fill tube to create a suction in the cooling...

My research shows that matching the lobe taper and that of the lifters is important...I would bet that is one reason many lifters go bad

It's either a stock bore or it's .030 over...can't be both. I would drain the coolant and refill with water after you do.... #1 Retorque the heads to be sure a couple bolts weren't missed. #2 Pull the plugs and do a compression test to check for a low cylinder. A compression test will find...

I think those tiny bits of copper are no danger to the engine. No more than carbon can be as they are much softer. Maybe only 1/8" in length. I could stick my air hose into the cylinders and rotate the crank to get them out, too. I have a thousand bolts in my bolt cabinet and plenty of grade 5...

Here's the latest YouTube video gabfest on my small block rehab... Thanks for watching.

While I am not a huge fan of Uncle Tony he does have a video of how to degree a cam with a feeler gauge...but you need the intake off of the engine. The first time I saw a cam degreed at all was in 1979 while volunteering on a crew at Bonneville. They used this method as most had never heard of...

I'm using studs in the ends of the heads....