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Doesn't Steer N Gear rebuild pumps? SERVICES | steerandgear

Dr Diff kit is the best for the money.

I like to follow up on my threads; in conversation with a fellow Mopar collector and former professional mechanic about this issue he asked if my "shifter clips" were keeping the linkage tight. "Shifter clips I ask?" Then it occurred to me that I twisted and deformed the clip on the column...

I've never had any luck with the hammer technique. I've witnessed guys do it and it works, but not for me. I just can't figure out the technique I guess. I've actually used a pitman arm removal tool to separate the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint.

I was surprised how dirty the fluid was in my pump. Steer N Gear won't warranty rebuilt steering boxes unless you change out the pump fluid.

You can take the belt off or loosen, put a mitivac on each line, and suction out the fluid while slowly rotating the pulley. I don't remember the reason, but Ehrenberg has said a few times that modern power steering fluid is recommended rather than ATF. Maybe it was foaming? I use O'Reilly's...

Maybe buy this and get a pump for a late model Impala?

Unfortunately 440 source is selling 'remanufactured original style pumps'. Vintage Air clearly states 'modern' Saginaw pumps only. I do see newer pulleys, so maybe you saved the day here? Thanks for the help!

The compressor mounting kit has brackets for the power steering pump that bolt to the front of the pump (like a modern Saginaw). The Federal pump on my car has two side bolts that mount to the bracket that is not compatible with the compressor mount.

Is this my only option? Borgeson Universal 800338 Borgeson Power Steering Pump Upgrade Kits | Summit Racing

So I just got my Vintage Air "sure fit" AC kit for my 67 Coronet and reading through the instructions. Seems it is only a 'sure fit' if you have a "modern Saginaw" power steering pump. Otherwise you can order a TRW bracket that clearly states it won't work with a Federal pump. Well, what if you...

Power Steering Input Shaft - Seal Replacement

I'm gun shy about cutting the column or having to fabricate anything. I know it's difficult for you to realize, but my skills are limited to turning a wrench. Anything beyond that and I need supervision. I actually like the over boosted stock feel. Just a llittle disappointed in Steer N Gear...

Replace the seal. @dadsbee has the procedure.

I recently had Steer N Gear rebuild mine. With shipping both ways I was out almost $1,000 total. Add to that a few glitches along the way with Steer N Gear making a few mistakes and I'm going to recommend a O'Reilly's exchange.

Search for posts by @dadsbee showing the input shaft seal swap. He did it with the box in the car.

Meets Chrysler specs and even mentions Saginaw. I've used this for years...

I received another crush washer from Steer N Gear and so far no leaks. Hopefully this is done and I can focus on other nit picking items.

I agree let's not debate. If you ever find the time measure your circuit. You will be surprised. I've seen neutral safety switch continuity as high as 20 ohms and the car will crank. If I were troubleshooting this with a test lamp I'm sure it would glow bright when the shifter is in Park or...

Six ohms is expected here. The ohm measurement is not the cause of the symptoms of not starting in Park. I get the same ohms in Park or Neutral. Let's just say I have continuity in Park and Neutral and disregard the ohm measurement. The symptoms are it will not crank in Park about half the time.