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Yup...

You should not need a proportioning valve with disk/disk...or drum/drum. The proportioning is done by piston size. Proportioning valves only came about when disks were used with drums because disks need about 50% more pressure, all else being equal.

Try Summit etc.

New cars with rack & pinion steering have less movable joints than our old bangers with idler arms etc. That means less places where clearance is reqd for movement & less places for wear to occur. Result is steering feels firmer, more direct.

If the 'play' in the steering wheel is due to a worn steering box, then that can cause toe out, & tyres to wear on the inside.

Disk brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes, & boosters were often upgraded to provide the extra pressure. Make sure the rod in the booster that makes contact with the m/c piston is adjusted correctly. A big gap will result in excessive pedal travel.

Keep the drum brakes!!

It could be the type of brake shoe [ lining ]. As the material warms up, it loses it's braking efficiency. Try a different brand of brake shoe.

This ^^^^^^^^^

Make sure your shock absorbers are in good condition. Worn out shocks make springs work overtime & the springs will sag.

Should not be loose. Loose means it has clearance.

Another possibility: the rear piston in the m/c has to close off the inlet port [ it feeds into the reservoir ] before any pressure is developed. Some m/cs have an internal adjustment for this in the rear piston. If the piston has to travel a long way before the seal blocks this port, then there...

Post #2...or....don't drive in reverse... Reversed brake shoes do not cause a grinding noise, they just wear unevenly.

Pleading Sergeant Shulz..I know nuttin.

I no longer have a Mopar, which is why I asked the question in post #29. Not all of us as knowledgeable as you...

Are there aftermarket upper control arms available for Mopars that give more castor? That is what is needed. A P/S box that is working properly moves the wheels after INPUT from the driver [ steering wheel ]. It will stay in that position until it gets another input from the driver. The only way...

I doubt 0.3* of castor is going to generate enough self centering force to overcome the valving arrangement inside the P/S, valving which determines when & how much assist is reqd. Very low tyre pressure would not help either.....

They look like 12 point bolts, with the points rounded off from using an ill-fitting wrench.

9" of vacuum is iffy....... A vacuum canister does NOT increase vacuum, it only stores it. In this case, 9", so will still have 9" of vac. If the low vacuum is due to a big cam, then the engine needs a LOT of idle timing, perhaps 40+*. If the current timing is 10-15*, then increasing the timing...

Ok. A 'built' 540hp 440 is going to need some 'cam'......which gives less engine vacuum to operate the booster. A quick test to see if the booster is working: press on the brake pedal 10 times to remove all vac from the booster. With your foot on the brake pedal, start the engine. If booster is...