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I see no advantage, only disadvantage. The lower control arm needs to be beefier [ read: heavier ], plus the added weight of the spring/components just adds unsprung weight which hurts handling...& ride quality. The Mopar front end was brilliant from day one in 1958, why mess with it? A friend...

Gene, I would say you have the wrong shocks. If the shock bottoms out/goes solid before the bump stop takes the hit, why bother to have bump stops????

A heavy car like a C body is going to ride better than a lighter car because the heavier car has more mass to absorb the road shock. If you want a softer ride, buy a C body, not an A body. Simple physics.

Car is 'stiff' because the coil springs have added to the spring rate. Probably feels like a truck. Remove the springs & enjoy the softer ride....

^^^^ This. Plus, you have added unsprung weight with the coil spring, which is never good for handling.

If you are in London, UK, & car is RHD, mechanic could be correct. I doubt though that the engine needs to removed. Engine mounts removed etc, & engine raised enough for access.

RemCharger is correct. Spring rate does not change. If you lower the car, your suspension is going to bottom out on the bump stops more often. You can reduce this, but not eliminate it, by using thicker t/bars. Another thing to consider: the length of the LCA is longer than the length of the UCA...

Yup...

You should not need a proportioning valve with disk/disk...or drum/drum. The proportioning is done by piston size. Proportioning valves only came about when disks were used with drums because disks need about 50% more pressure, all else being equal.

Try Summit etc.

New cars with rack & pinion steering have less movable joints than our old bangers with idler arms etc. That means less places where clearance is reqd for movement & less places for wear to occur. Result is steering feels firmer, more direct.

If the 'play' in the steering wheel is due to a worn steering box, then that can cause toe out, & tyres to wear on the inside.

Disk brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes, & boosters were often upgraded to provide the extra pressure. Make sure the rod in the booster that makes contact with the m/c piston is adjusted correctly. A big gap will result in excessive pedal travel.

Keep the drum brakes!!

It could be the type of brake shoe [ lining ]. As the material warms up, it loses it's braking efficiency. Try a different brand of brake shoe.

This ^^^^^^^^^

Make sure your shock absorbers are in good condition. Worn out shocks make springs work overtime & the springs will sag.

Should not be loose. Loose means it has clearance.

Another possibility: the rear piston in the m/c has to close off the inlet port [ it feeds into the reservoir ] before any pressure is developed. Some m/cs have an internal adjustment for this in the rear piston. If the piston has to travel a long way before the seal blocks this port, then there...

Post #2...or....don't drive in reverse... Reversed brake shoes do not cause a grinding noise, they just wear unevenly.