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For electronic ignition there is a tach signal wire that provides a clean square wave. This series of videos will help you understand MSD use with a old tach. Restoring Tach for 68 Road Runner – Project BeepBeep

You may need to convert the tach for electronic ignition. See rt-eng.com for a module. I can bench test the tach for you, or if you have a function generator I can walk you through it.

Call Dick's speedometer in Tempe and see if they can help you.

The PCB (printed circuit board) connections may need some solder reflow. The pins at the connector to the PCB are revit pressed and a solder flow there fixes many intermittent issues. If you want to pull the cluster PCB and send it to me I can inspect the connections, reflow solder, and bench...

I suspect a new switch is required. @Slantsixdan has original manufacturer replacements that work great.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/long-life/lighting---electrical/bulbs/brake-light-bulb/c01ba6fdfed2/sylvania-90-long-life-incandescent-mini-bulb-pack-of-2/syl2/90llbp/v/a/14561/automotive-car-1967-dodge-coronet?

I wouldn't use the 1004. It is a 13W bulb and the 90 is a 7W bulb. Too much heat could melt a lens or socket.

The condenser most likely would fail open circuit and not impact the operation (5V application). A chance the condenser could become leaky and cause the limiter to shut down is unlikely, but still possible.

No issues in both of my B body cars. I do not have the condenser in circuit. Why add a 60 year old component that is not required and could fail?

I remember @threewood did this conversion.

Search around this thread Post in thread '1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus' 1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

So what was the final verdict here? Did you use the CH-181? I'm looking to go Pertronix in my Coronet which currently has Mopar Electronic ignition.

I recommend taking your AM radio and having it converted to a modern AM FM Bluetooth device. You can run a remote rear speaker with a fader potentiometer, but you cannot run three speakers.

Yellow wire at the starter relay and connector at bulkhead. Recommendation to contact cleaner spray the bulkhead connectors is great advice. I like DeOxIt for this, but other sprays safe for plastic would work.

Back in the day they took a 1N4007 diode and jumped the headlight to park light circuit circuit. That way you still had park lights available.

Most of these I have trouble shot will give one or two quick sparks when the power is applied, regardless of reluctor position. I hate to tell you many of these modules are dead right out of the box. Was speaking with a fellow Mopar owner the other day who had gone through three of these before...

Ballast resistor case does not require an electrical ground.

These videos will help you understand the MSD signal for the tach. Post in thread 'Tach issue' Tach issue

Is you tach getting it's signal input from the coil or the MSD? The MSD signal is very stable and easy to read by any modern tachs. I'll post a link to a similar tach troubleshooting thread with videos.

Got to at least try.