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The talk of cutting, welding, and bashing the tunnel has altered my thinking about changing the K member in my car. It's just too cherry to alter like that. It's not one of the Mecum auction cars but nice enough to respect. I'll still make a stand for startup cause I'm going to use a flat tappet...

I have, in the past, put the whole shebang together, with success. As you say, preparation is needed, check everything, valve adjustment, timing, etc. But then I did not have the fancy facilities that I have now, big shop, gantry crane, two post lift and all. I worked with jack stands on my...

So, then, RSZ28, why the disagreement. Splain yourself.

Good point, and well taken, but if I finish the build with the current 64 K member, I'll need one of those pricy max wedge oil pans. Something for me to consider on this, already pricey, toy.

I'm wanting to build a run stand based on a K member so that fitment of parts can be easily determined. I intend to do the engine break-in on a stand because the transmission and other stuff will also be new, and I want to "introduce them separately" If that makes sense. Too many new things...

Ah, yes, the 4 door, but vanity prevented that.

Thanks gents, that clears it up for me. I kinda figured that it was the high HP- big slicks thing. I raced lower stock class and the only way that I could flex the chassis was with a bumper jack. Did lots of winning with my 361, closer to 400 inches. Got caught in tech once and was put in SS/JA...

I raced Mopar's many years ago and sometimes wondered why the post body seemed to be preferred. I often chose odd combinations. The convert got me in some better class brackets. Maybe some of you will satisfy my curiosity about the advantage of choosing a post over a hardtop. Searching the net...