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Thanks for the excellent step by step write up.

Removing the steering column should be easy with two people. For myself I used two jack stands, front seat out, and some grunts. The only thing I broke was the vent cable dash mount. I should have removed it first. JBWeld seems to have fixed it.

Well for the first time in my ownership I have back up lights when shifting into reverse.

Just for good measure I placed some blue loctite on the threads. Wish me luck here.

I got a 1/4 20 1.5 inch long flat head nylon screw. Made a few measurements with my calipers. Looks like I need 1.35 inches for the perfect fit. Cut the screw down and cleaned the threads with a die. Reassembled and per my ohm meter looks like this will work. Sprayed some CRC silicone lube into...

Nothing like updating an old thread. Steering column is out for a coupler rebuild while the steering box is at Steer N Gear. Went around the neighborhood in search of a Tap with a flat bottom. One neighbor had a 1/4 20 Tap. I could get about three threads tapped. Tried a screw and it did...

Those radios have disappointing FM performance. They are a AM radio that the engineers kludged a FM tuner onto in a nutshell. I generally try to talk the person into sending it off for a conversion as the FM just doesn't work that well. What fails on these is the AM FM band switch, oscillator...

Thanks. Sourcing the headrest is probably the hardest part (and most expensive). Like I said previously you don't get the intended protection unless you latch the seat back. That is an important step that needs to be figured out.

What's included in the kit. Do you get any hardware to install a seat back latch?

I'm still going to honor my non disclosure as the camera company is still in business. I will say there were scenarios where the headrest would move and push the crash test dummy head through the windshield. Other conditions were the headrest would fly up to the max position and the crash dummy...

Keep in mind in order for headrest to provide protection the seat back must hold position. In pre 1968 cars some seat backs do not have latches. (I actually worked for a high speed camera company back in the day and crash test consultants were our biggest customers. Learned so much about car...

Is that the car from Dave's Totally Auto back in the late 1980s?

The test light goes across the fuse contacts. It is now your visual fuse. Glowing bright is a short. Remove the dome light bulb. I like to unplug at the harness connector. Start at the instrument panel connector, then work backwards.

Get a incandescent test lamp and clip across the blowing fuse location. It will light bright indication of a short. Now unplug various branches until the light dims or goes out. That branch will have your short.

If the AC stuff wasn't there I could see this being an easy under dash kind of thing. Looks impossible to me with the AC and Defroster duct in place. I can't even get my pinky finger in there.

I found the fuse box (above the park brake release). It's a Sunday night so I just wired the voltmeter to the accessory fuse and called it a night. The ammeter is somewhat shunted so I'm good for now. Another question: does the AC Heater box have to come out to pull the radio? Thanks...

Hello I've owned two 1968 and one 1969 B Body mopars. Recently bought a 1967 Coronet and have realized quite a few differences when it comes to the under dash layout and interior electrical. So, today's project was to jump out the ammeter. The underhood was straightforward and easy like my...

Latest acquisition.

I'd be interested in a good nylon replacement.

You may need to fish wire up from the bottom. Remove the inner fender well splash shield. Take a look around between door pillar and cowl.