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Thin oil gets oil to all the flow restricted areas quickly so it reduces start up wear & may help fuel economy... But with looser bearing clearances and fully grooved main bearings both of which are commonly used in high performance engines it can lead to low oil pressure... I'd be trying some...

Back in the late 70's I experienced it... 383, over 6K rpm's & the oil pressure dropped to the point the idiot light came on & the gauge confirmed it... Shut it down, a minute later fired it up & the oil pressure was fine.... The engine had a Crower 280 duration 500 lift cam & kit, hooker...

How loose are your bearings? Oil is getting out somewhere...

First I would temporarily attach a calibrated master gauge, compare it to your dash so you know if the dash is close to truth... Second high volume pumps have been known to pump most of the oil up into the top of the engine quicker than it can find it's way back to the pan....

Rods are still where they belong? You're probably fine... Big question.... Do you trust the gauge?

Personally I always find a way to get them out... But 30+ years ago I worked with the king of flat rate, He never tried to remove them, hell, he wouldn't drain the coolant to change them, He'd drive the new one in without ever touching the old one... IMO complete hack dirtbag.. But he made...

http://rockerarms.com/pages/about.html Twenty years ago they were the best.. Ten years ago they nearly went out of business... Lately everything I've heard has been very positive... They do beautiful work...

He's referring to the half circle of missing metal... It was designed as a oil squirter to spray oil in the direction of the cam & lifters... Bearing manufacturers eliminated them many years ago... They claim they were ineffective & lead to lower oil pressure... I say any extra oil on the...

The one on the firewall is the master....

Exactly what I was about to post... I have a car in my shop right now that the owner was on the phone with Rich about yesterday.... He'll tune anywhere in the world as long as you have internet & can follow basic instructions...

@BMosely is this a SST install? Or a Kiesler Install? Because the Slave cylinder mount design was changed & the SST design should keep things aligned & supported much better... The kiesler design used a modified (cut down) front bearing support and two spacers, it supports the inner diameter &...

The two I've gotten are Wilwood... The one I have from a previous Kiesler install is something else & definitely inferior... I have a couple of the FTE slaves... They work well & appear to be a quality part... Actually better made that the Ford OE stuff from the 90's...

So did you unscrew the governor bolts? Cause the threads don't appear hurt but the hole area of the governor is gone along with it looks like two of the bolts? To a point the dropped it in park while still rolling sounds good but I'm sure most of us have experienced that & it makes noise but...

Looks like a couple governor bolts backed out? did the rear pump get any damage? So, governor support, governor, tail housing.... What else? What else didn't get torqued?

Using 3/4" on both cars... Not using a fork, the cylinder is directly attached to the bearing..... Like I mentioned previously, auto manufacturers have been using these since the late eighties with very few problems... If they were having problems they would have either solved the problem, or...

Hence the reason to buy a hydraulic clutch.... Dramatically less pedal effort... The slave cylinder/throw out bearing combo has been used since the late eighties with very few issues.... Don't cheap out, buy the Wilwood from Silver Sport.... You won't regret it..... I have a Cuda in my shop...

Go with the hydraulic clutch.. The difference in pedal effort is unbelievable... I've heard some race guys don't like the feel of the hydraulic... But I'm not racing & the reduction in pedal effort is huge... I've fought a QT bell with .070 runout, I would (and have) used the Silver Sport...

Yup. the clunk is slack somewhere & it may be completely normal.. What's the idle RPM? Lower RPM = softer engagement = less clunk... When you built te trans, did you add a shift kit? Or bump the line pressure? Cause higher pressure = firmer engagement = louder clunk...

Well, cracked/broken flex plate tabs & the 727 apart... No better time then now to hang that empty case back on the block and measure the crank runout in relation to the case...

I've seen the band break, I've seen the front band strut bend... I've seen the rear band anchor come apart... I've never seen the rear band strut bend... It's so short there's not enough leverage to bend it.....