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A tapered bearing in this application wins in side load capacity and longevity, hands down. Is a tapered bearing overkill in this situation? ....probably, but part of what makes these vehicles great is they represent a time before the corporate bean counters started chiseling every last nickel...

Sealed ball bearings certainly have their place. They probably won’t last as long as a tapered bearing but if it’s a life of 100,000 vs. 150,000 miles who cares the way our cars are driven. I think it’s come down to more of a marketing exercise than engineering. Hot rodders always feel...

Have you checked the pinion angle?

I've used John Deere blitz black on many chassis components with good results. It certainly doesn't compare with automotive paint but when used over the Deere buff primer it sticks well and has fairly good grease/oil resistance. The satin finish is very similar to DP90...

I used to only resort to RTV in emergencies but I have to say I’ve been using Permatex Ultra Black more and more lately. It’s not your father’s silicone, much tougher and adheres way better than the original blue stuff from back in the day. (If remembering how poorly the blue stuff worked puts...

Possibly a nano-bit less!

I don’t know the history on how the green (ball) bearing thing came about but it's never made sense to me. For an axle shaft, a tapered roller bearing beats a ball bearing in every respect.

I tried this years ago and once I knocked the bushings out, the holes were too big for 1/8” NPT, I think I ended up using 7/16” bolts. Second time around I left the bushings in and used 5/16” stainless bolts. Installed with nuts and welded the nuts in place.

If you can’t find a fine/coarse thread stud in the right length, most fastener supply houses like Fastenal have (or can order) fairly long set screws that work equally well as a stud. Set screws are normally made from high strength material and have a Class 3 thread which means you’ll have a...

I will be attempting the same feat on a 69 Cornet soon. Any ideas on supporting the back of the engine with some sort of brace so the car can be moved after the tranny is out?

Thanks, I'll go the chisel route and leave my MIG gun in it's holster.

What’s the easiest way to remove the bearing collar and bearing from an 8 3/4 axle? Would running a bead of weld around the OD of the collar expand it or shrink it on tighter? I know the weld trick works great on bearing cups but that’s welding on the ID to shrink the OD.