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The fender mounted turn signal indicators only light with column mounted switch and the flasher switch. Up until 1968 the front parking lights only lit in the park position of the headlight switch. That was changed in 1969 and they stayed lit with the headlights. Check voltage at the switch.

Chrysler used a similar setup in the police cars for the alternator amperage gauge. Straight through with a grommet and no quick connection at the firewall as was for the regular production cars. They knew that was an issue in 1970. I saw it in the Plymouth FSM.

Class D amps can be used for anything. A lot of new studio monitors for recording or just a music workstation are class D. They require less power because they are only active when they receive an input.

I fixed that and it ran fine and charged good. Maybe it wasn’t charging right before that. Idk. It’s been a while,1986. But that fixed it.

Yes. And the FSM doesn’t show that. My Brother had a ‘70 Challenger that would drain the battery over night. A local auto shop that specializes in electrical could not figure it out, and just attributed it to “Mopar electronics”. It was a bad VR to firewall ground.

I bought an ebay electronic Chinese special that replaces the ‘61-‘69 mechanical points original, and it’s been working great for almost a year on my daily “everyday” ‘68 Satellite. I think it was $17. I tried a USA Standard OG type, and it burned out in a day...

They are all suspect to deteriorate. It was the most efficient way to build the cars on a production line. But putting full alternator amperage when needed through those spade connectors is asking for trouble. The engineers knew that, and had direct through connections to the amp gauge with a...

A fire hazard.

I don’t like them at all. But that’s just me. I do hear guys saying it was a thing in the 70’s and 80’s. I don’t remember it. Seems like a thing since 2013.

I got this one from Autozone. It’s for a Ford but was on the rack. Same 12 gauge and had the lug on one side. I spliced in to the replacement that a former mechanic had installed. As you can see it melted the bulkhead connector at one point. A big resistance problem on these old cars that...

Treed! :thumbsup:

Check your fusible links.

You could order a clock, tachometer, or oil pressure gauge. I’m going with the tach.

I just put both lugs on one post in my wagon when the amp gauge started acting up. And yes… the FSM doesn’t show many grounds. My brother’s ‘70 Challenger had a discharging battery problem that no shop could fix. It turned out to be the voltage regulator ground to the firewall.

LED’s being diodes only flow current in one direction. You won’t hurt them flowing the wrong way, they just won’t light.

The dash mounted reverse indicator appeared with the change over to the Hurst shifter. They added it because the Inland shifter had the reverse pull and the Hurst didn’t. I think in was early 1968 for the switch over, so all 69 4 speed cars should have the connection for the bullet.

That’s what I thought I remembered. I’ve had my ‘68 4 door with the light package, but just recently one went out. I used to grab those for my brother’s ‘68 VIP.

I remember taking them out at junkyards. The lense has a rubber O ring and held the bulb in. Idk… my daily has them and one is out so, I guess I’ll find out.

Might be covered with under coating. Unless a previous owner super glued them on. Hope not! :)

The early ‘69 cars used the “bullet” style that you unscrewed the lense. I guess you have the newer one piece version. I believe there is a cap nut under the fender for removal. Just a guess as I have that style on my ‘Cuda, but they still work.