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Coolant system pressure check passed at a holding steady 16psi.

This past weekend I got coolant and oil/filter back in the motor/radiator and fired her up. Started and idled nicely and the oil stayed oil. Coolant system pressure check will be this coming weekend. PS- used DadsBee’s oil filter draining tray idea and WOW, so much cleaner now!! Oil...

Slowly drained oil and it was immediately oil. Still need to pressure test once I get get drain plugs back in block.

I need to run out for more propane so maybe I’ll stop at Autozone and borrow a pressure tester and test to 16 pounds. But to pressure test I’ll need to refill with liquid first so guess I’ll also get some antifreeze.

the block drain plugs were removed earlier in the week and water came out so hoping all is good. Today I’m either turning the motor over a few times and see if milk shake is made or just drain the oil and see what comes out first as I’m assuming the water would have settled to bottom of oil pan.

I should know for sure when I drain the oil and see what comes out first.

Well here’s a good sign, I hope, that the garage isn’t fully artic, all the water I drained yesterday has been sitting in the garage and it’s not frozen through, only the outer 1/4” is frozen and the rest is still liquid. And the temp has been -3 to 3.

I know what you’re referring to, beer’s liquid until you open it, then it partially freezes when opened. That’s what happened with my radiator when I took the cap off, some steam/vapor came out, then ice on top inside.

On the last page you missed that I stated the heater core isn’t in the car. So non-issue. Maybe this is a partially good sign, but the beer in my garage is still liquid, not the same as water, but close? So can’t be that subzero in the garage. Water is still dripping out of rad and block...

Well I learned my lesson, if I’m going to run water then make sure to drain before freezing temps start. Or invest in a garage heater.

Oh I hate starting the Bee when it’s on jackstands. I fear it will vibrate itself off the stands

I used the heating pad for the top rad hose. And just got one block drain plug out and water came out. Stupid question, do both side block plugs need to come or is one side enough?

And the oil is still black, no discoloration.

Torpedo heater obtained and running now. Have rad drain plug open and water actually came out so maybe it’s not frozen through. Water is still dripping out. Will pull dipstick now and look. Ran straight water with water wetter for better cooling. Heater core started leaking early in summer...

Garage is attached to house and water is fine.

Yea, I have a space heater under the radiator now and a heating pad wrapped around the upper rad hose. And the 440 motor is not numbers matching, but is built pretty big.

We’re having subzero weather here, and I completely forgot about the all water in my radiator and it’s now frozen, including rad hoses. Freeze plugs are still intact though. The Bee is stored for winter. Do I just ride this out and wait for it to thaw in a few days when “warmer” weather...

The new coil you added, is it the same exact as what was replaced? If not, might it have a different ohm resistance and that’s causing the issues?

When you disconnected the vacuum advance, did you plug the port on the carb where you disconnected the vacuum line? if not, now there's a vacuum leak at the carb, but at least the extra timing was removed. Hopefully the better minds here will know: if vacuum source was not covered, did...

Westmont? Are you talking the Morris, IL cruise night? Because I saw that same 68 Coronet R/T (and that Fiero next to it) at the Morris car show last weekend (July 9). There was 975 cars, a new record for Morris. Glad my Bee was one of the record setters.