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I’ve had the same problem, except my car would stall while driving. After an hour or so of sitting it would start right up. Very frustrating at times to the point of where I stoped driving the car. Thinking something was getting hot and not making a connection somewhere in the distributor...

Thanks, I adjusted it about 50 miles ago. I’ll re check it. Think this could be failing when it gets hot and may need to replace it

Only have the carb that’s on it.

update, unplugged the jumper on the BR and took it out for a quick 5 min drive. Came home and pulled in the garage to check and top off the tranny fluid while the car was idiling in N then it dies and won’t fire back up. Took some readings with the key on Battery-12.26v BR is at 11.26 & 6.8...

Coil instructions are stating to by pass BR when running a MSD box or run a BR if running points style ignition. Think the ECU substitutes MSD box. We’ll that got pretty hot, now I’m here seeking advice…

So here is some info on what I’m running Mopar ECU P4120505 No name Electronic Distb And have these 2 coils MSD High Vibration Coil 0.7ohms Calls for a 0.8 BR when using points ignition Petronius Flame Thrower 1.5ohms coil calls for no BR. With that ECU, what combo of coil and BR should I run?

So coil and BR need to add up and match the ohms of the ecu?

What is ch? Is the ohms rating dependent on the ECU or the coil? Msd instructions say to bypass resistor if running MSD box and use BR if running points distb. No guidelines for this set up

Been messing around with coils in my car, got a MSD high vibration (can be mounted horizontal) and this thing gets smoking hot after 5 min of idling. Engine starts spurting and then does. The. Takes a quite a few cranks to fire back up. Is this normal? I did jump the ballast resistor. 67 cornet...

Just bought one for 67 Coronet with upgraded ignition and came with headlight harness. Needed to update the alternator and voltage reg. Part # HU206BM

same thing happened to me in my 67 coronet, replaced the ecu and coil and haven’t had an issues. Learned to carry a spare ecu, coil, and a must have volt meter to trouble shoot the problem right then and there.

Just picked up a blue box from summit, rated at 5500 $30. Thinking all my issues are due to that dam mopar ecu. Says USA on it but not made in.....we’ll see.

So I decided to go with a Rev-N-Nator system but they are back ordered, so when they come I’ll update my ECU. In the meantime I bought another ECU from summit (blue one), Ballast Resistor, flame thrower coil. I’ll install these parts and see how she runs till then. thanks for the input

I did look in to the MSD RTR distb but I have edelbrock RPM performer heads and read somewhere that they need to grind a portion of the head down to get it to fit. Anyone know if there is any truth to that? I’ll look into Petronix sytem. thanks

looking for something more reliable, think my current ignition problems are related to the Mopar ECU. Car is just a weekend driver https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/possible-ignition-issue.198500/

Going to upgrade my ignition system, thoughts on the 3 systems below? Currently have electronic ignition with Mopar ECU and MSD high vibration coil. MSD-6AL with MSD high vibration coil Rev-n-nator with their coil http://thertgarage.com/products.html FBO with their coil...

Checked the ground between the coil and battery. + is 4.0 and - is 4.5. Don’t know how I would check the coil case ground. Engine is grounded per the beep beep on the ohm meter. Thinking of installing a lager ground wire on the motor to the frame. Coil is brand new too, less than 10 miles on it...

Checked it with a meter and getting 0.3. I’ll put some lock washers on both sides of the screws and remove some paint to make sure I’m getting a good ground.

thanks, I’ll check this when I get home. Should I run a ground wire from the ecu to a dedicated ground I have about 2” away from the ecu?

So I replaced the ignition switch and got the same reads with the old one. Red wire No key-12.5 On-10.7 Running 13.3 car running BR was at 12.8 & 7.2 Coil +7.1 -3.7 Is it common for the ECU to stop working the start working again 12hrs later?