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Pretty common. Search for previous threads on the subject. Check for linked or blocked vent tubes, that's what I found on mine. I'm sure others will chime in.

Sounds like a "normal" situation to me. When mine sits for a few days without running I have to crank it a few times to get the fuel back to the carb. 4 or 5 seconds X 2 or 3 and we have lift-off. I have a brand new mechanical fuel pump (spectra premium).

Very helpful info , kiwigtx. I am wondering though, the 1 3/8 that you give for you base ... was that you final height flange to crossbar. Or is that the total of what was removed from the height?

Performer and performer rpm are two different intakes. The rpm is indeed a tall s.o.b. as it is a high rise manifold. The performer is a low rise dual plane.

Don't know about your year, but I'm going through this very issue on a 69. I can tell you that the edelbrock performer 2191 is 1 11/16 taller than stock on the 440. I had to buy a repop base and ill need to modify it to fit .

Some are bent to the point that you can't rotate them 360 degrees. They hit the block. If I can figure out how to post pics from my phone I'll post some.

Good info. Thanks guys.

I picked up a 69' 383 engine a couple years ago. I was planning on a complete rebuild someday. Last week I took the intake and valley pan off and found that a majority of the pushrods are bent. The motor isn't locked up. My questions are: what would cause this and what if any other damage...

Add the word "RARE" to the description and you can double the asking price!

Thanks, but I've got a running 440 in the car now. My plan is to build the 383 as time and money free up. I'm just trying to figure out what's worth re-using on the rebuild, and also what will interchange from the 383 to 440.

69 model year 383 with a factory 2 barrel intake and exhaust manifolds. I am wondering if different heads and exhaust manifolds were used on 2 barrel engines, or if the heads and manifolds were same on both 2 and 4 barrel set-ups. I picked up a 69 date coded motor (2 barrel) and am wondering...

Picking it it later this week!:headbang:

I would like to pick up a 69 383 block to rebuild with a mild street performance for my 69 RR. The car currently has a 70 440 in it. I found a guy locally that has a 69 date coded 383. He's not sure what its out of, but says it is complete and has a 2bbl carb on it. He thinks it has a couple...

Yep, there is a bushing in the fork. But the "D" shaped opening at the end of the adjusting rod kinda threw me off because it looked odd.

Thanks for the help, guys. This site and the members are a great resource!

I was under the car today and noticed that on the rear-facing side of the clutch fork there is no nut on the threaded portion. It is double nutted on the front side. Should there be a nut or locknut on the back as well? Also, on that same rod, on the front end of it..where it meets the pedal...

Running 235/60 15's all the way around. I jacked the car up, marked the yolk, 1 rev of the tire = roughly 3 1/2 turns of the yolk..perhaps 3 3/4. Is that telling me I have a 3:55 or 3:91 or something in between? Perhaps I need to invest in an inexpensive tach to verify...but it sure seems...

Fender tag calls out a 3:91, previous owner says it's 3:91. I don't believe the tach is wrong, its definately turning some high rpm's at highway speeds. I don't want a dog, but I'd like to bring the revs down and give the motor a chance at a longer life. The original 383 didn't make it, it has...

My 69 RR has a factory 3:91 rear end gear and a 4 speed trans. Great for acceleration, lousy for highway travel and fuel consumption. It's turning 5k rpm @ 55-60mph. I'd like to try to find another 3rd member to put in it, but what ratio would be good? 3:55? Lower yet? Anybody with 4 speed...