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When you say it "pops" out of gear.... I assume it acts like it is in neutral? Or does it physically go back to neutral? If you start your car in neutral and let the torque converter fill up for 15-30 seconds before putting it into gear I would be willing to bet it doesn't behave the same way...

You could just add breathers to the valve covers and vent atmospherically.

I got ya... Nothin wrong with that. I just don't know for that budget if you are going to be able to get there without having anything to start with. Those old 426 hemi's ain't cheap. I realize there is the wow factor of the hemi under the hood, but you could get those power numbers and stay...

Stock appearing hemi and resto mod in the same sentence... To me, a resto mod is an older style car body with all modern components underneath. (EFI on modern engine, modern gauges, updated suspensions, etc...) So I guess the first question I would ask is how do you define resto mod? Do you...

Fuel filter?

What is that plate looking thing on the left valve cover? Is there a PCV valve under that thing? If so where is it connect to? And if so have you tested with it removed? I noticed your dipstick tube is popped up as well... Just curious. Also do my eyes deceive me or is that vacuum advance hose...

I have that manifold on my 496 stroker (the 383 block variety)with no spacers. 555 hp 620 lb/ft of torque. .588 lift cam and it has decent street manners and good power throughout the band. You give up a little top end horse for lower end torque but all and all no complaints.

I got nothing other than to ask if it does it when not on the tender? Or does just the act of opening the hood cause it to start?

I have had the ceramic coated tti's on mine for 3 years now....5k miles on them and you would never know to look at them.

Try adjusting the shifter linkage.

My understanding about their existence is to prevent oil vortexing at the crank that can rob horsepower at higher rpm's. But oil vortexing can occur at mid range rpm's too. Plus the obvious lack of oil in the pan for the pickup to put back up top. If it were all stroked out I doubt you could...

I run that on the street with zero issues.

I'm curious. With that hydro/solid combo what are you setting your lash at when you do set it? And do you set it hot or cold?

I adjust mine with every oil change. Solid roller cam. Poly locks. Very little adjustment is ever needed on mine with .588 lift.

Well, and this is not a knock on the 383 mine came stock with one too, but the fact is a stock 383 (unless a 4sp/air grabber car ) is just never going to be worth what a 440/6 or hemi car will be. That's just a fact. But I am by no mean suggesting trashing the numbers matching 383 by boring it...

Replace the oil filter as pops suggest probably collapsed.

Having breathers on both valve covers isnt unusual. Generally refer to as atmospheric venting. And the white smoke you are seeing is oil misting. This can be somewhat reduced by baffles but won't completely go away. Some do this to prevent those crankcase gases recirculating into the combustion...

Replacements blocks are stamped with an "S".

He condones the use of dingle arms. That guy KNOWS his ****!

Never used one but read about those a while back. But from what I recall those numbers don't sound too bad. Sure a little lean but not horrible. Just curious what your targets are for idle/cruise/wot? 12.5 across the spectrum?