Search results for query: *

Strange, I’ve seen countless original Corbin clamp installation failures at the dealers back then. Failure rates so high, every dealer I worked at then had strict policies against re-using Corbin type clamps while performing any repairs, screw clamps only.

15591, see pic in post 56

To be clear, the first shot above is my attempt to run a three-belt big block A/C configuration, as discussed here. It did NOT work for me, belt slipped. Second shot is the same motor running the factory designed 4-belt config, no more slippage. Here are some more pics of my other big-block A/C...

Don’t waste your time on the three-belt config, it will slip. Been there, done that. With the three-belt config, I suspect the slippage is at the crank pulley. The combined load of both the PS pump and the water pump riding a single pulley grove with only 110 degrees or so of belt contact. With...

There are no relays involved with the A/C system in '72, two supplemental wiring harnesses were added to the engine compartment and dash. Two wires running from the bulkhead connector, one to the low pressure switch on the dryer, then a single wire on the clutch. Another wire ran to the fan...

The 195 will give you better all-around drivability with currently available pump gas.

Bottom pictured (above) valve is the original design, superseded to the metal design (middle pictured) around ‘74 after it became clear the Bakelite valves were failing due to engine compartment heat, especially with HP exhaust manifolds. Top pictured valve is one of many aftermarket valve...

Thanks, but unfortunately, previous owners did not feed it right, full resto was in order. Before; After;

The correct part for that app. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-2998326

You will need to pull and split the case halves to get anywhere near the heater core. The heater box can be removed with the dash in place. The 72’ FSM does have step by step instructions for this service, page 24-68. Basically, disconnect the A/C lines and heater hoses, sounds like you already...

Two lines makes it a 71’ if you are sure it’s a b-body box. One line out to the vacuum reservoir and one to the water control valve. 72’ and up the water control valve is cable operated. Use the 72' hoses if you still have them or modify what have using the 72' diagrams above.

For 72’, with A/C, the water control valve is cable operated; only a single vacuum line runs through the firewall, passenger side. It’s the vacuum supply for the system, connects to a small nipple on the intake manifold fitting, behind the carb.

I’m running that water pump housing, you need the correct hose nipples for the hose sizes. The housing has an extra location for the additional temp gauge sensor.