I have had the coil mounted in front of the carburetor in a horizontal position for years. This will be in the way of the A/C compressor so I had to move it.
Big block pulley sets with A/C and P/S Pictures anyone?
- Thread starter Kern Dog
- Start date
I took a spare coil bracket and welded a bracket to the side, a 90 degree bend allows me to stand the coil upright and sit it between the runners of the intake.
As seen in the last post, I had an MSD Blaster 2 coil. I had it for awhile and one day it just quit. Their instructions DO state to NOT mount it horizontally but several guys online claimed that it didn't pose a problem. Now with this bracket, any cylindrical coil will be okay.
As seen in the last post, I had an MSD Blaster 2 coil. I had it for awhile and one day it just quit. Their instructions DO state to NOT mount it horizontally but several guys online claimed that it didn't pose a problem. Now with this bracket, any cylindrical coil will be okay.
Got the 26” rad installed. Have everything purchased for the AC swap except for belts. I can see the belt part numbers on your PS and water pump belt. Can you let me know the 5 digit number stamped on the 2 AC compressor belts?
15591, see pic in post 56
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I finally got off of my *** and started the A/C switcheroo. First off, the instructions show how to "Bench test" and calibrate the unit. All the wires are hooked up. The power supply is ran and the wires get grounded. I tested the functions and everything worked as directed. Afterwards I started removing stuff. Console, glove box and door and ducting. Next up is the old A/C and heater box. I'm thinking of covering the firewall with some Dynamat to replace the stock insulation.
I'll get back to it tomorrow and hopefully have an update.
I'll get back to it tomorrow and hopefully have an update.
Way to go Greg, you're ahead of me! I didn't know your car was an original AC car. That means you have a head start. When I redid my interior, I had the shop cut duct openings for the side vents and center vent so it would be set up for AC and then I sourced the vents used off ebay. I also sourced the center vent duct piece. Would you mind posting photos of all under dash ductwork and hoses either in the car or on the workbench? I'm not sure if I'm missing anything.
Why did you need to remove the center console?
Why did you need to remove the center console?
The console has to come out to make room to remove the massive original heater A/C box!
Wow. Massive was an understatement. I had to remove the passenger seat to get this tank out!
I got the original unit out today. It is almost double the size and maybe 3 times the weight of the aftermarket unit. The new one does NOT have provisions for fresh air blending, they are recirculating only. I don't know why this matters to some people. If I needed fresh air, I can roll down a window.
I covered the back side of the firewall and underside of the cowl with BOOM MAT brand sound deadener.
Tomorrow I am obligated to help a guy set his 505 and 727 in his '68 Charger. I may not have much to report.
I got the original unit out today. It is almost double the size and maybe 3 times the weight of the aftermarket unit. The new one does NOT have provisions for fresh air blending, they are recirculating only. I don't know why this matters to some people. If I needed fresh air, I can roll down a window.
I covered the back side of the firewall and underside of the cowl with BOOM MAT brand sound deadener.
Tomorrow I am obligated to help a guy set his 505 and 727 in his '68 Charger. I may not have much to report.
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I was thinking about how much weight the whole project would add to the car.
It is a factory A/C car but I dumped everything under the hood when I pulled the 318 out in 2001. The 3 440 engines I've had in there were always NON A/C.
This conversion...I was thinking that it might result in a net weight gain of 20-25 lbs. This is an estimate based on several things being changed.
New aluminum WP housing is lighter than the iron one I had. (Weight loss)
New Radiator is about the same size but I am using a shroud now. (Slight gain)
Different pulleys and brackets. (Slight gain)
A/C compressor and lines, condenser. (Weight gain)
New underdash unit MUCH smaller and lighter. (Large weight loss)
It weighed 3940 with a full tank before I did anything.
I am considering a Tremec 5 speed swap too. I wonder if that would weigh more than the 727 considering the trans cooler and lines, linkages, fluid, etc.
I'm not obsessed with weight, I'm just curious about the differences.
It is a factory A/C car but I dumped everything under the hood when I pulled the 318 out in 2001. The 3 440 engines I've had in there were always NON A/C.
This conversion...I was thinking that it might result in a net weight gain of 20-25 lbs. This is an estimate based on several things being changed.
New aluminum WP housing is lighter than the iron one I had. (Weight loss)
New Radiator is about the same size but I am using a shroud now. (Slight gain)
Different pulleys and brackets. (Slight gain)
A/C compressor and lines, condenser. (Weight gain)
New underdash unit MUCH smaller and lighter. (Large weight loss)
It weighed 3940 with a full tank before I did anything.
I am considering a Tremec 5 speed swap too. I wonder if that would weigh more than the 727 considering the trans cooler and lines, linkages, fluid, etc.
I'm not obsessed with weight, I'm just curious about the differences.
THis heater box is massive!
The Vacuum pods seem to work. It is a complete unit. I might post it for sale with all the ducting.
The car looks gutted!
The Vacuum pods seem to work. It is a complete unit. I might post it for sale with all the ducting.
The car looks gutted!
A few gripes about the system from Classic Auto Air:
* They had a template showing where to drill a new hole for the A/C evaporator drain. I followed the instructions and drilled the 5/8" hole...THEN with the unit in place, the hole was too high and over to the side.
Too low would have been workable, as gravity would have helped. Instead, I had 2 big holes close to each other. I had to use a fat washer and a bolt and nut to cover the unused hole.
* The master ECU for the electronics ....No clear instructions on where to mount it. Not a whole lot of room under there either. I ended up putting it above the glove box on the back side of that panel with the plastic pebble grain, retained by the speed nuts for the pebble grain plastic panel.
* Zip ties to connect the ducts to the inlets and outlets: Would it cost them much to include a few spares? Sometimes they snap, sometimes the duct slips off and the zip tie cannot be reused or won't slip back on. Seriously....these are probably 100 for a dime. I had some here to use but others might not, requiring a trip to the store.
I'm used to having to modify or alter some things to get them to work. I don't mind that. To call their system a "Perfect Fit" isn't completely accurate but so far what I have dealt with is not too bad. I'm almost done with the interior work. I'm going to leave the glovebox out so if there are any glitches, I can get to everything.
I actually connected the cigar lighter...It hasn't worked in years! I'll only use it as a power port for charging phones or whatever. The stereo has an jack for Ipods or phones too.
* They had a template showing where to drill a new hole for the A/C evaporator drain. I followed the instructions and drilled the 5/8" hole...THEN with the unit in place, the hole was too high and over to the side.
Too low would have been workable, as gravity would have helped. Instead, I had 2 big holes close to each other. I had to use a fat washer and a bolt and nut to cover the unused hole.
* The master ECU for the electronics ....No clear instructions on where to mount it. Not a whole lot of room under there either. I ended up putting it above the glove box on the back side of that panel with the plastic pebble grain, retained by the speed nuts for the pebble grain plastic panel.
* Zip ties to connect the ducts to the inlets and outlets: Would it cost them much to include a few spares? Sometimes they snap, sometimes the duct slips off and the zip tie cannot be reused or won't slip back on. Seriously....these are probably 100 for a dime. I had some here to use but others might not, requiring a trip to the store.
I'm used to having to modify or alter some things to get them to work. I don't mind that. To call their system a "Perfect Fit" isn't completely accurate but so far what I have dealt with is not too bad. I'm almost done with the interior work. I'm going to leave the glovebox out so if there are any glitches, I can get to everything.
I actually connected the cigar lighter...It hasn't worked in years! I'll only use it as a power port for charging phones or whatever. The stereo has an jack for Ipods or phones too.
Kern Dog- As you know thats what everyone has to deal with when we put parts and pieces on these old cars when they didnt come from the factory that way. Im not saying that the factory was spot on neither but you would think these companies would do a better job when it comes to the quality and fit of their products. I hope you express your opinions to them on their "Perfect fit" systems. Also, got any pictures of the install??
I had a few delays but I am back to the project.
I'm having some trouble with how to route the lines under the hood. I lost the original set of instructions and the PDF they emailed me is all screwed up...Pages out of order, pages missing, schematics not to scale or accurate at ALL...
The main problem I am stuck on is the fittings and lines on the compressor itself. If the rubber hoses were attached, they would sit up enough to be an obstruction to closing the hood.
In the above picture, this is how the schematics show the pump to be mounted for a 440 4 barrel.
For a 440-6 barrel, it shows the pump clocked 90 degrees CCW....Like THIS:
The trouble is, each of those cars with the fittings clocked to the side had the condenser lines running to the RH side. The instructions for mine show them to run to the LH side.
Now I'm wondering if I can clock the compressor, still use the supplied fittings and attach the condenser lines as shown in the instructions. They provided plenty of enough length with the 3 rubber hoses....that was nice.
I'm having some trouble with how to route the lines under the hood. I lost the original set of instructions and the PDF they emailed me is all screwed up...Pages out of order, pages missing, schematics not to scale or accurate at ALL...
The main problem I am stuck on is the fittings and lines on the compressor itself. If the rubber hoses were attached, they would sit up enough to be an obstruction to closing the hood.
In the above picture, this is how the schematics show the pump to be mounted for a 440 4 barrel.
For a 440-6 barrel, it shows the pump clocked 90 degrees CCW....Like THIS:
The trouble is, each of those cars with the fittings clocked to the side had the condenser lines running to the RH side. The instructions for mine show them to run to the LH side.
Now I'm wondering if I can clock the compressor, still use the supplied fittings and attach the condenser lines as shown in the instructions. They provided plenty of enough length with the 3 rubber hoses....that was nice.
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Ever sit down when you are frustrated and stew over a problem like this?
It has been THAT kind of day for me. I keep running into roadblocks today. I'm surprised that the meat loaf I made came out okay.
I went back out and think that I might have stumbled onto something. I clocked the compressor 90 degrees and ...
NOW it looks like the hoses will clear and be routed in a clean arrangement. The one with the blue cap on it runs back to a fitting at the firewall. Below it is a U shaped fitting that will connect to a hose leading to the condenser. Sorry, I am not clear on the correct terminology of the lines. All of this A/C stuff is new to me. I have literally never had working A/C in any old car. Any car that I bought that had it, the system was usually broken.
It has been THAT kind of day for me. I keep running into roadblocks today. I'm surprised that the meat loaf I made came out okay.
I went back out and think that I might have stumbled onto something. I clocked the compressor 90 degrees and ...
NOW it looks like the hoses will clear and be routed in a clean arrangement. The one with the blue cap on it runs back to a fitting at the firewall. Below it is a U shaped fitting that will connect to a hose leading to the condenser. Sorry, I am not clear on the correct terminology of the lines. All of this A/C stuff is new to me. I have literally never had working A/C in any old car. Any car that I bought that had it, the system was usually broken.
On my car, I elected to run the lines to the drivers side. Only reason being there's sooo much stuff going on on the passenger side and didn't want to add more to the headache. I'm sure I'll hear "That's not factory" but I'm not concerned
One comment... I know lots of people who design these systems do it but the charging ports shouldn't be right at the compressor, especially the low side fitting... When you charge the system it's possibly to have liquid refrigerant enter the charge hose, if it remains in a liquid state at the way to the compressor it can damage the compressor.. By simply moving the charge port to the other end of the suction line you virtually eliminate the possibility of liquid refrigerant hitting the compressor..
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