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Remember, if you go from a non-AC set up to a factory based AC set up, you will need to find the 6 vane water pump to put in the housing. The diameter of the vanes is smaller as well. The AC water pump is spun faster by the diameter of the different pulleys. IF you don't change the water pump...

could be, here is my resistor with all spade terminals intact

his tab is broken off, I have 2 resistors here that have all the tabs still intact

Stay away from Classic...I got one over here that does not work very well and their help department is worthless. You do not have to change any valves if you go with 134a....a new receiver drier would be needed, but that is all

friend of mine put Classic's system in a 67 Charger, nothing but problems, poor fit, and it's never worked right or cooled enough since the install. You figure for the price, it would be worth it, but it's not.... stay away from Classic's systems

won't work....the t-stat is way bigger than the Chevy one....go to local auto part store and just get a new water neck....

you will also need a non-AC water pump as well...pumps are different also needed is the correct non-AC water pump pulley

no, it will not fit. You could use a non-ac box in your car, but the entire firewall is different also, you would have holes in firewall that are not used anymore, plus it would look like crap

AC & Non-AC boxes and cores are completely different....AC cores usually are around $250 or so....A company in Texas was the only company that had them as far as I knew

o-rings do not need to be changed, but the receiver-dryer would be a good idea to change

mine do the same thing....yours might be the wrong size clamp, or the hose it too thick

the 8 blade pump is wrong for an AC car...you need the smaller 6 vane pump for your application if you are still running the stock factory AC pulleys

yup..that's the thread I was referring to

this has been discussed to death on DC.com...the rotary pump on the left is junk, don;t use it...stay with the stock pump on the right

do you have a 67 service manual to look at?

valve has to be right up against the heater core nipple, I think I had to re-route my cable also..been so long ago

no...the vacuum valves were not for our cars back then....ours were cable operated....I just used the same cable when I put an inline valve in the heater hose...just make sure you install it in the incoming hose to heater core for best results

the original triangle water valve on the firewall is operated by the temp cable on the dash. It regulates the flow of water into the heater core for more or less heat into cabin

go to your local NAPA store and get a water valve for an older ford truck..it's cable operated, and usually less than $15

the OE compressor and expansion valve do not need to be replaced, all components will work with 134a. just flush the system, and install the correct amount of oil & refrigerant and you will be good. The newer compressor will not flow as much as the V2 OE compressor, hence less cooling. The...