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Half groove, correct?

Like this. Do need the tools.

KD, refresh my memory, since posting about the lower oil pressure, have you switched or shimmed the relief spring?

1 - The good news: you can put the cam timing just about anywhere you want when decreeing the cam. 2 - The bad news: the manufacturers aren’t compelled to actually make them right, because of #1 above.

I wasn’t going to bring it up, but glad you did. The side load stress, particularly when going diagonally bolt to bolt with a chain with a flat angle, is incredible. Far more likely to snap than 4 - 5/16-18 bolts in tension.

Had one of those. Sold it. To each his own.

I think tensile for 5/16-18 gr.8 is 7,800 lb. Like Mike pointed out, proof load is 6,300 lb. To the OP, use what you like, but there is no reason to be concerned about the bolts.

You already have your answer over there.

They will fit.

I'm pretty sure that the springs that came on my Eddy heads (15 years ago) would have worked with most street type SFT camshafts. Just call the company and ask what spring they are using on their heads.

The head doesn't care. The valve spring might. The standard springs that come with some of the aftermarket heads might be good enough. You just need to check the cam manufacturer's spring recommendation verses the valve spring spec on the head. Worst case, buy new springs.

The valve train seems like an epic fail on the builder’s part. What about the rest of it? As you step through the teardown, can you share the rest of your findings? What parts were used, and the quality of machining/assembly? Also curious, do you know where the car is, and how the motor got...

You need to grind the hold down tabs off. The lower portion of the rocker body may contact the cast pedestals. Use a thin shim between the rocker and pedestal and hold down. It will be close enough then.

Funny. Read it again :)

Was there oil on the intake puddling under the bolts, and running down onto the pan?

It is common for people to believe that oil collecting on the valley pan is from the bolts. It is not. Oil on the manifold is a different story. I’ve probably R&R 100 BB Mopar intakes. Never had oil on the manifold. If crankcase pressure is the cause, why don’t they all leak? Why is using a...

The bolts do not need a sealer. If you think your bolts are “leaking oil” that means the intake is not sealed properly. Also, if the bolt holes line up well when you are using 2 - 0.030” paper gaskets, you don’t need sealant on the gaskets either. I usually use a thin film of light grease...

Mill the head is better. But that ship has sailed for the OP. Maybe mill the intake, or try the 0.015" gaskets on both sides. You do need to check the China wall/hold down bar/bolt for interference with the intake.

Yes.

You know its a 360 piston, right?