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I had issues with mine. It turned out to be an intermittent connection at the bulkhead connector. As others have said, pull it and check for crud build up on the threads of the sender. Test the wiring back to the gauge. If you ground out the signal wire, the gauge should go to H. You can do that...

Well done KD, that's a great result.

Lol, that's exactly right. Sometimes it would be nice to have contacts at NASA, but for now a standard vacuum pump will do. :lol:

FYI, the reason you put the system in a vacuum is to remove moisture. The vacuum lowers the boiling point of water and the water actually boils off when doing this process.

That really is looking great. All the time you put into mocking things up and looking at different options has really paid off Greg. Keep up the good work.

For reference, this is close to the stock setup in my 70 Coronet. The difference being that the heater hoses are slightly long and I havent trimmed them back yet. I know its a different compressor, but just eluding to the fact that the hoses are a bit more clustered together. I can access the...

Looking forward to following you on this one Kern. Good luck with it.

I mentioned the funnels earlier. Here is a video explaining the process. It worked great for me. Yeah I know its a Chevy and the guys voice is nauseating, but it's good info. Another method is to elevat the front of the car slightly to allow air to work itself out because it will travel to...

Yep, I understand your concerns about the funnel, but it is an easy and innovative way to remove air from your cooling system. The overheating could be a number of things. If your timing is at 34 deg as suggested, it most likely has to be a partial blockage in your system or a failing component...

If you have never run antifreeze in the car, I suggest you do a flush. I did my car recently, used a proper radiator flush and ran the car for half an hour. Drained and flushed with water a further 8 times until it ran clear. Then flushed with distilled water a further 2 times. Drained the...

Not 100% with the 440, but the 400 2bbl and 4bbl with AC, take a 28 inch radiator from factory. I would assume that the 440 would be the same.

My 73 Charger had the same valve on it. I believe the original ones were these (pictured). But due to cracking and general failures they were changed out for the one you have.

I do have them, but unfortunately I am overseas at the moment. I won't be home until January. Maybe ask the members here. I know that a few people have done this and I am sure they would share the instructions with you.

The caulk comes in the pack. If you have lost it, it is a rubber type compound. It is soft and pliable with a consistency like plasticine. Sorry I don't know the name of it. Maybe you can contact http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com and ask them if you can buy some off them. Good luck.

Hey Suregrip. Sorry, I missed your post from December. I'm sure you know by now, but yes 4 screws and the rest are clips. If you need any additional pictures, let me know as it's not installed in my car yet.

Here is a tutorial that is very helpful http://www.retrorarities.com/images/HeaterBoxRestoration.pdf

Yep, I am hearing that a lot that the bottom picture is correct. Mine had top pictured one on it which I assumed to be original but now I think it was a replacement. I believe the middle one is off a 74. If anyone else has any ideas please chime in.

Hey guys, I am trying to work out which is the factory correct hot water control valve for my 73 Charger. Its a big block car and came with this type which I assume is the correct one; But also there is a replacement part; and also; They will all work but would like the...

No worries Moparsmitty. If you would like a more detailed version, you can find it here as well as loads of other great info http://www.retrorarities.com/images/HeaterBoxRestoration.pdf

Yep, just be aware that the correct way to leak test a system is to charge it with nitrogen leak test it for 24 hours. That will show you if the integrity is good. Then drain the nitrogen and vacuum it down. 21 microns should be an ok reading. Then charge it with 134 a. It should then work...