Search results for query: *

Sticky brown stuff in the jar. I wouldnt even bother with a b/rb motor, its just the coolant passages that concern me. I would be heartbroken if i got water in my build.

Hey guys I am installing the intake on a 360 magnum, and I was curious if anybody here uses indian head shellac to help seal intake gaskets. Im not sure if it will stand up to heat well. Would I be better off installing them dry?

Ive seen this plenty of times in shops but never used it. This is applied to both sides of the gasket?

Ive always used gaskets as opposed to rtv when I can help it with good results. There are certain applications where I add silicone. A very thin film around intake ports, timing cover just to hold it to the block, BB valley pan hold down bars, PITA thermostat housings etc.. with the magnum motor...

You would think a slant six would suffice.. I love it.

Well I think I found the answer i was looking for, but now it just brings up more questions. So i was finally able to get a good shot of a magnum era truck motor mount online. It has bolts that thread into the middle of the block as opposed to the older style running the opposite direction near...

Hey guys im installing a 2001 magnum 360 in my 78 cordoba. I am about to order a bunch of parts including new motor mounts I was wondering if I should go with the stock mounts for an LA 360 of that year or the mounts for a 360 in a 2001 ram 1500.

I know truck vs. passenger car pans are different. I was looking to see if the pick up and pan from a 318 second gen cordoba would fit on a 360 in a first gen doba.

Very true, I just happen to be the stubborn asshat type that prefers to learn by falling on my own face as opposed to listening to others who have been down the same road.

About the synthetic leaking more, ive always heard that it will clean the grime that is acting as a seal in old motors making them leak. Well i figured I would test this "myth" myself when I first got my cordoba. That car didnt leak a single drop of oil with the original engine. I ran royal...

I prefer to pull the motor, dissasemble every single piece and clean them all individually with wire brushes and a sandblaster then i procede to put it back together 98% of the way and leave it sitting in my driveway for months.

Not as complex as you might think it would be a simple project to do yourself and learn about your motor but when i do these the bare minimum required is.. Oil pan gasket, head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, carb & air cleaner/ gasket, front crank seal, rear main seal, distributor...

Hopefully the old timers here dont pick me apart. As i have stated i am no professional nor do i own a machine shop. If you are looking for a full rebuild i would suggest paying a shop but not everyone can afford an hourly rate.

Im in sacramento a bit of a drive. This is the 383 i did recently. I basically just did a "refresh" if you will. Pulled it apart and put new gaskets, sanded painted etc... Pulled the bearings off to check for damage. Inspected cam, lifters and pushrods. The engine had been recently rebuilt and...

Wish i was just a hair closer to you. How much were you looking to spend?

Similar to wild rt except i use 2, 3 inch 7/16 bolts to pull the engine and trans together. Then you can get the rest of them in and pull out the long ones. Once you thread the first one in good you can use it as a pivot.

Ive never personally seen cast iron heads warp. Buy a cheap picture frame and use the glass to check for straightness. A little gas in a spray bottle helps you see where it touches the glass.

No coolant passages in the intake of the big blocks.

Stock fan? If its an b/rb with the ac setup, Water pump/tensioner pulley/crank it can be a pain. Guy before me put a clutch and a seven blade to help cooling.The thing would always squeal above 2k no matter how tight until i put a 5 blade on.