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Seems to me it's unnecessary for a 4 pin ECU on a '69, no?
I'm thinking L1 being in the key "on/run" position and not getting voltage would be an issue to find out why not.
This has voltage with key "on/run" and key "start" position?
Other checks you might make.....
Continuity for both...
Mine is a single ballast but as I understand it, you should be getting battery voltage to the ballast from the ignition switch.
Disconnect BOTH connectors at the ballast.
Ign 2 connector (red) should have battery voltage with key in "start" position.
Ign 1 connector (green) should have...
I use a large Craftsman blade screwdriver and an adjustable......
I can work it back and forth to get it to climb up for me. Some extra oil may help.
If that don't cut it, off the pump.
I had several straight boot plug wires I had issues getting on in my Abody for lack of space. I ordered 90° boots but was sent straights.
Here's #7 and a straight boot. Right up against the steering. Could not get it on until I lubed the boot and slid it up the wire. Got the connection made...
Some of the stuff I use.
The shorty plug socket (w/o the rubber bushing) and box wrenches work pretty well for me. A 12 point deep socket can allow a bit of an angle for tighter plugs a 6 point won't get on. Careful though, too much angle and you can break the ceramic.
A 3/8" drive fine tooth...