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Go to O'Reillys and get this and dump in it. Motorcraft Friction Modifier - XL3 Part # XL3 Line: $11.99Each

We used to have a set of left hand drill bits when I worked at the JD dealer for occasions just like this. Sometimes when drilling the bit would catch the stud and unscrew it for you. Good luck.

I went to the local pullapart and got a pan and filter extension from a 518 which is about 1" deeper than stock 727 pan for $13. Got a weld in drain plug from Summit ( Strange Drain Plug Assemblies H1117D) for another $13. Had a deep pan for $26 with about an hours work.

Here's a good fix. Summit racing. Allstar Performance Crankcase Evacuation Systems ALL34145 Part Number: AAF-ALL34145 $47.99 Allstar Performance Crankcase Evacuation Systems Crankcase Evacuation System, Steel, Chrome/Gold Iridited, Universal, Kit See More Specifications In Stock (more...

Here's a post I did for my cheap junkyard pan. 518 trans pan

Here's the TC from my 77 MH 440 with a cast crank. That's a pretty big weight.

Use a shop vac while your grinding to catch most of the shavings, then do the wash job like they say. You can never be to clean.

Here you go.

The filter extension was some kind of plastic that looked pretty cheap and had a crack at one of the holes, so I just grabbed the screws and will make my own extension.

I'll just use a piece of aluminum and make a spacer that will match up with the filter.

Stopped by the local pull-a-part the other day and picked up a trans pan off of a 518 to put on my 727 for my Coronet. The original 727 pan is 1.25" deep and the 518 is 2.5" deep. On the way home I stopped at Summit and picked up a weld in drain plug kit for the pan. Oil pan $13 Drain kit $12...

Just something else to think about. Are you sure you have the right dipstick and the correct amount of oil in the motor. Seen this happen before to a buddy of mine.

Here's a quick tip to clean under the hood of a newer car with all of the plastic in the engine compartment. Give everything a light spray of Bleche-Wite tire cleaner and let it set for just a minute and wash it off with a little pressure water and it will look like brand new when done. We lived...

Been washing mine for over 40 years. Spray everything but the dizzy and alt with Super Clean and spray it off with warm water at the car wash that doesn't have real pressure.

I agree with Cranky 100%. There are lots of 383 RRs out there, but they don't bring the money that one with a better motor brings. Get a 400 and stroke it and keep the block so if you decide to sell it you can give them the original motor.

Take it all out together as one piece. Then I bet you have to take the bolts out of the pressure plate and take clutch and all with the transmission because the clutch disk has rusted to the input shaft and will not come loose. This will give you access to the shaft from the front so you can...

So here's a question for everybody. Do you lube the oil pump before you install it. If not you just spun the heart of the engine over metal to metal with no lube waiting on it to prime itself. Last thing I do before I install the pump is take it apart and inspect it and pack it full of assembly...

I see you're from CO so i'm thinking the car is in storage which means it probably is not in a climate controlled building. Are you sure your anti freeze is good, and it didn't freeze up over the winter some time. Have to be careful in cold climates.

You could have water leaking around a header bolt or stud too, as I believe they screw into the water jacket on a 360.