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Use a GM HEI 4 pin module, mounted on a heat sink to the dist body. Less wiring, less connections to fail. Switch to an E core coil, which allows removal/bypassing of the bal res. And a spark with more energy, 0.060" plug gaps..... Info & pics on the web.

The coil you are using determines whether or not a bal res is reqd with it. The Pert unit is just a 'switch' in this case that switches the coil current on/off. Bypassing/removing the bal res will burn out the coil if it is designed to be used with a bal res.....

No, you can retain the coil for use with HEI but you have to use the bal res with it if that coil is designed to use a bal res. You will not get the best out of the HEI unless you use an E core coil with 0.4-0.6 ohms pri resistance.

The best place for Pertronix products.....is on the shelf at Pertronix. If you want a better ign system than the Chrys ECU, use the GM 4 pin HEI module. See post #26 & others.

Well that wouldn't help.....

Lithium batteries should only be sold if a fire extinguisher is included in the sale....

Getting the + & - wires reversed on the coil does not damage the ECU or coil; it gives reduced secondary voltage.

Packard made plug leads for different manufacturers; these had a carbon track that carried the spark current. Very high resistance 10-30,0000 ohms. The carbon was also liable to break & cause hard to find misfires. I saw on another forum that Packard now make wires with a heli wound conductor...

R/T boy has covered it well. The mixture is less dense as cam overlap increases. More distance between the molecules; flame front takes more time to spread; hence more timing [ advance ] needed to get the most productive burn. With really big cams, up to 50* at idle may be needed...

Might have been the prayer to Allah.....

Semiconductors in the ECU can suffer from something called thermal runaway; basically, they overheat & their electrical characteristics change. They can return to 'normal' when they cool down. If an ign coil is used with a low pri resistance, say 0.5ohms, then the power transistor in the ECU...

Have not read all the replies. Has the vac adv been hooked up? Every time the VA deploys, it flexes the p/up wires. Eventually the wires break.....& no spark. I would try a new p/up or different dist.

This thread is a great example of where a little knowledge is dangerous.... OP, you need to get some help ON SITE from somebody who knows Chrys ign systems.

The magnetic pick up inside the dist. If the vac adv was hooked up & working, the p/up wires will eventually break because the wires flex every time the vac adv moves. Disconnect the plug & measure the resistance, should be 100-500 ohms; flex the wires while measuring checking for an open...

NGK BP5S

Best bang for the buck is the GM HEI 4 pin module conversion. Pics on the web of the module mounted on the side or under the dist. You could use your existing coil & bal resistor with it but better spark performance using an E core coil such as MSD #8207. You could even use your original points...

Why did the air gap in the dist close up [ no spark on that cyl when that happens ]????? I would be looking for something loose, shaft &/or busing worn.

That looks like a copy of the POS MSD Ready to Run....& Ready to Stop. The pick up air gap is probably too large. When the air gap is too large, not enough voltage is generated by the p/up to trigger the module. A sluggish starter, old battery will also reduce the voltage generated because...

If the engine sputters, poor ground will not cause this problem. Most likely cause is something in the headlight circuit is shorting to ground, causing battery voltage to drop which in turn kills the spark. You could try using low beam & then switch to hi beam, see if one works. That would...

You might not consider a GM HEI an upgrade, but it is........for a number of reasons: - more spark energy - bigger plug gap - variable dwell - no bal res to fail - less external connections, so less failure areas. HEIs are being made for engines that NEVER had them originally. NOBODY is making...