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Sorry, but as an engineer, I know the knowledge transfer to trade schools can be pretty poor. The bonding from color to clear has far more to do with chemistry than any mechanical effect, at least on the scale of orange peel.
There are numerous clears. Some aimed at full cars “glamour clears” and some aimed at touch up jobs and all steps in between. The glamour will have less orange peel than the touch up.
Another factor is the gun. An HVLP will make more orange peel than an “RP” or compliant gun. Often it’s the...
I planned on using Deltron on mine but there is no color mix for ‘64 EE1 so I used Omni color with Deltron clear over it. Covers as well as Deltron, used both many times. The clear is what keeps the UV out.
All the filter / water separator stuff above is good advice. Absolutely cool the air before them. The warmer the air the more moisture it holds. Upon decompression out of the gun it cools and water will precipitate out of it. This water is in gas form in the hoses and so won’t separate out. You...
As stated above, don’t plan on using whole Sherman parts. If however you just need a piece of a Sherman part they can be helpful. They have saved me much time in beating a raw piece of metal into the desired shape.
Car seems pretty “done” I’d go low-impact. Maybe a piece of tape or putty with a dab of matching paint on it. Nothing that could screw up what you have.
The NAPA store near me will do that. Poke around some, you’ll find someone. Other case is get some mixed up by a paint supplier and buy a touch up gun. Better spray results.
This stuff is a nuisance but really not too bad once you get going. Could just do it yourself. I think I was 20 the first time I did one, came out like factory.
I've bought AMD patches and trunk extensions, super quality. Used pieces of Sherman patches (cowl) but never expect to use the whole things, they are kinda junky but for select areas are a step ahead of beating the form out of sheet metal yourself. AMD should have all the stuff you mentioned.
My C.A.T. gun came with both HVLP and Compliant (reduced pressure) tips. I like the compliant version more than the HVLP. A bit easier on the compressor too.
Take a sample of the old paint to a PPG paint store and have them scan it with a rapidmatch spectrophotometer. You aren’t going to just buy paint that matches that well unless you know what was purchased before (exactly).
Most likely a 1064nm. Probably a fiber laser but could be an older YAG too. CO2 would do it of course but with the free space optics, alignment would be a nuisance in setup.
Pretty good. Butt welding is fun but getting gas coverage on the inside is a nuisance. Magnets holding a block up against it on the inside work pretty well if an extra gas bottle and regulator aren’t handy. Worst part is doing TIG (or any welding) on your back at the bottom of the quarter.