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You have slant 6 bars, not small block. Grease in sockets and bar ends. L and R is critical Front/back no difference.

There is a nut on a stud underneath. Wire brush, penetrant and time are your friend. It has been in place for 58 years now.

b-body mopars have 10x2.5" front and rear. The aftermarket is superceding parts numbers and they are giving out either type of shoe for all cars. How about the mid 70's cars that get a hole instead of a slot shoe? They cannot put their brake lever in those shoes at all.

@Kern Dog you are the one that pointed out to us all the FSM tells us to install a windshield inserting top edge in gasket first. I never knew that before you pointed it out. So you do use the service manual, and maybe more than you think. Yes a quick answer is always nice to have from...

Get an FSM, when you are bored page through it and get to know your car. A lot of good info in there, learn something and you can start answering questions for others.

It will pull to the side with more positive caster.

Yes you need strut rod bushings on both sides of the K frame. Let's go back to the LCA pin sliding into the bushing. That is not going to work out, and is not how it fits. The bushings are press fit to the pin and the LCA. Your bushings are made wrong, common problem these days.

You can leave calipers on the side they are on, remove them and rotate so bleeder screws are at the top. Put a block of wood snug between pads and now bleed out the air. Reinstall calipers.

66-72 B bodies were 11x3" front 11x2.5" rear. Self adjusters started in 1970 model year for 11" brakes. 66-69 11" were manual adjusters. Yes arcing the shoes to the drum gets you full contact on the shoes from the start, big difference over waiting for them to wear in. Brake reline shops...

What is your car? What engine? How do you drive it? Does it have heavy options like A/C and power windows? Yes disc is much better. 11's have more braking power and take longer to over heat. Front Disc brakes are the upgrade to make. Manual or power, up to your leg power. No they didn't...

One side at a time. Raise one side of car, put a stand under it. Unbolt lower shocks and u-bolts, lift rearend with jack, put a stand under it. Take off shackle, unbolt front hanger with 4 nuts. Swap spring, put it all back together. You may have to swap over the front hanger of new springs...

What year is the bird?

A suspension can look like that and work great. Have you driven the car to see what it is doing? You are very energetic to wire wheel everything like that! Just one loose or bent part and or misaligned can make it drive terrible. Is that the only rust hole? Could be, that's where dirt sits...

Which place has the best fitting brake lines. Not stainless steel. I bought from the right stuff in the past, not impressed with the products.

Bigger pulley slows down the pump. Need to know specs of both pumps to know what that will do to steering operation,

Some bushings have the inner sleeve to large and they slip on the pin, it happens a lot these days. How could the pin get too small unless on a lathe?

Measure and a photo for us. All the hardware changed between 69 and 70.

He has a power brake car, either an E body or 71 up b body. They go in engine compartment on the firewall.

The valve on top of the steering box needs slid forward or rearward. I forgot which way. Slightly loosen it and move it. Then tighten and start the car. The end result is when both front wheels are off the ground and you start the car the steering wheel does not move either direction, it...

It could certainly be more than a drop. Put something under the to catch any fluid. Everything looks so clean on your car don't damage it. Are the lines on the wrong side?