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Normal for the height to change after driving the car. It will go lower if anything, and maybe not the same on each side. So get it close and drive it. Jouncing is fine but usually not enough to end the changes in height.

The manual doesn't say to lift the front end when adjusting height. When bolts are new and free from rust and dirt at the factory it won't harm them. For us 50+ years later it helps to wire brush and lube them and to raise the front end to have less load on the bolts. People have stripped them...

Plain old PS fluid. Not the kind that will stop or prevent leaks. That's just a gimmick that won't work anyway. Don't use any ATF or anything synthetic. Yes newer mopars use ATF+4, but this ain't a newer mopar, so it's wrong.

Don't run the car like this. The valve on top has been moved, and it needs to be moved back. Two bolts screw in straight down, holds the valve to the box. Now loosen and slide valve the other direction forward or back. It is slid all the way one direction right now.

Guys, it's been 50+ years, things get swapped on these cars. These bolts sit still for years and if you dont spend some time wire brushing rust, degreasing and soaking with penetrant they will not tirn smooth and destroy themselves. Sometime you can't save them.

There are different length bolts for these from Chrysler. I don't t believe the length matters much as long as you have threads left to adjust it. Factory bolts generally better than the aftermarket

Don't pinch the brake hose. Ever. Take the hose off of the brake line, put a small vacuum cap over the end of the steel line.

It went to supply vacuum to the speed control. You don't use speed control and power brakes at the same time, the brake pedal cancels the speed control. It does not go to and vacuum canister, they has a specific supply line.

A press is better How are you removing the old ones?

What you have IS the upgrade! Factory 4 piston brakes are not any better than what you have now. Hard to find parts and expensive when you do.

Clean it and find the leak source it may be an easy fix. Or get it rebuilt by a profrssional shop. Switch to manual is not that easy.

The hole is in a different place for manual vs power brakes. Power is higher up. Looks like they had a manual plate and made it fit Power brakes. You are keeping power brakes? That's the round hole type.

They don't care! No consequences.

You may need to remove the block from the housing to get a good grip on the damaged nut with a 3/8" wrench or vise grips. File some on th damaged nut somthe wrench will go on. Then hold the block with pliers To loosen the nut. People that operate like this need some consequences for damaging...

Your brake pedal is the same. you need: manual brake firewall plate manual brake MC pushrod- manual drum brake is same rod manual brake disc brake master cylinder I got a master for a manual disc brake 1973 Charger and it works perfect. I don't know the bore size. It needs to have the bore of...

Get a service manual and it has many photos and he service procedures. There is a good reason they stopped using it. LOL

It's what the design is called on those cars. It is an oddball system that can be finicky. They can work good. Helps a bunch to have the shoes arced to the drum.

Truck shops still do it, and they might still have the ability to do car size brakes. call around your area. It is pretty important to do on 1960-1962 mopars center plane brakes.

Any wedge v8 will bolt to any other V8 k frame 1966-1972 B & E body. Hemi excluded 67 and older had the different idler arm without the through bolt. mid year 1970 all had coins welded on with a 2 digit number stamped on them for ID. A B E bodies 1970 B & E started the skid plates on 440+4HP...

why do you ask, are you having a problem? Power or manual? Mopar power steering is very sloppy with the engine off, or pump disconnected. do you have a factory service manual? It outlines adjustment procedures and what is normal. tight or sloppy it will not compare to a modern car or a rack...